Terrasse des Épices. Photos by Ingrid Pullar for The Wall Street Journal
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* “All the clichés are true: The town is overwhelming, colorful, chaotic. But it’s also very comfortable with its bipolar nature; the Gallic and Arab and ancient and modern elements commingle with ease. Marrakesh is eternally worth passing through, quickly or otherwise.” *
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The Wall Street Journal, by Sarah Khan (Marrakech, Morocco, December 12, 2013) — Some say the name Marrakesh comes from “murra kish,” which in an Arabic dialect means “pass by quickly”—an old warning about highway robbers and wild animals. Others insist it comes from the Berber phrase “murr akush,” or “the land of God.”
Inside Dar Cherifa café
This split personality carries through to modern-day Marrakesh. The city is part “Arabian Nights” fantasy, part French elegance; it is a spiritual haven and also a partyers’ paradise, a hippie retreat and a glamorous getaway.
One second you’re reacting to cries of “Balak!” (watch out!), dodging donkeys in the clogged arteries of the walled old city; an hour later, you could be lounging by the enormous marble pool of the Taj Palace Marrakesh in the serene Palmeraie neighborhood.
In the madness of the medina, your senses might register jasmine and orange blossoms one minute, sweat and raw meat the next—or, as is often the case, all at the same time. You’ll emerge from a luxurious hammam treatment only to be blanketed in dust.
For every riad with hand-painted wood ceilings, carved marble archways and latticed lanterns, you’ll find a cafe with stark white walls, chrome accents and contemporary art.
The heart of the 11th-century medina is Djemaa el Fna, the square where belly dancers, snake charmers and trained monkeys have cavorted for centuries, and where food vendors hawk everything from chicken kebabs to fresh snails.
In the Ville Nouvelle, vestiges of French influence persist in broad boulevards and crumbling Art Deco facades. For a more avant-garde scene, Sidi Ghanem, an industrial zone on the fringes of town, has edgy design emporiums and trendy restaurants.
All the clichés are true: The town is overwhelming, colorful, chaotic. But it’s also very comfortable with its bipolar nature; the Gallic and Arab and ancient and modern elements commingle with ease.
Marrakesh is eternally worth passing through, quickly or otherwise.
Djemaa el Fna features an outdoor mobile food court.
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Journal Concierge: The best hotels, restaurants, neighborhoods and shops according to designer Paloma Picasso, socialite Christine Alaoui, photographer Hassan Hajjaj and chef Moha Fedal.
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Christine Alaoui
Jardin Majorelle
The Socialite: Christine Alaoui
Hostess who entertained the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and decorator Bill Willis in her Marrakesh home
Artistic Oasis // Berber Museum, Jardin Majorelle. It is in the workshop of painter Jacques Majorelle, designed by Paul Sinoir, the French architect from the ’30s. I used to accompany my friend Yves Saint Laurent around the surrounding gardens at dawn, when they were closed to the public. His ashes were scattered in these gardens he loved and owned. Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Guéliz, jardinmajorelle.com
Beatrice Paul
Best Boutique // Beatrice Paul at La Mamounia Hotel Beatrice worked with famous designers such as Claude Montana, and combines classical Moroccan embroidered fabrics with a Parisian touch. Avenue Bab Jdid, Medina, mamounia.com
Local Fare // Dar Yacout. My favorite restaurant. Mohamed Zkhiri and his brother Abdellatif are the best hosts and have received the whole world, from heads of states to kings and famous stars. I love to eat the tagine makkfoul. It is made with lots of tomatoes, onions and cinnamon on top of the meat and cooked for hours. 79 Rue Sidi Ahmed Soussi, Bab Doukkala, Medina, yacout.ma
Luxe Lodging // Royal Mansour. There are many beautiful hotels in Marrakesh, but this is the most incredible. The craftsmanship of the local artisans is just unreal. My daughter, photographer Leila Alaoui, launched the first exhibit there, a series of portraits of famous artists of Morocco. Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, Medina, royalmansour.com
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Hassan Hajjaj
The Photographer: Hassan Hajjaj
Moroccan artist, fashion and housewares designer, and owner of gallery-boutique-teahouse Riad Yima
Djemaa el Fna
Standout Street Food // Djemaa el Fna Most locals have favorite stands at the outdoor mobile food court of this ancient square. I like the orange juice at #13 and the fish ‘n’ chips at #14—it’s a family that has been doing it for a long time. They also make a great aubergine paste.
Chic Shop // 33 Rue Majorelle. This boutique opposite Jardin Majorelle is a little bit like Colette in Paris. They sell clothing, accessories and home décor by dozens of Moroccan designers. 33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Guéliz, 33ruemajorelle.com
Mountain Escape // Kasbah Bab Ourika. A hotel on top of a mountain outside the city. It is heaven on earth. If you want fresh food and fresh air, to relax and think, I highly recommend it. Ourika Valley Atlas Mountains, kasbahbabourika.com
Royal Residence // Bahia Palace. This beautiful 19th-century palace (now a historic site) is a real riad, where viziers lived. When you go there it’s like, wow. You feel how Marrakesh was at one point. 5 Derb el Arsa, Riad Zitoun El Jdid, Medina
Refueling Stop // Afriquia. At this gas-station chain there are simple cafes that serve traditional Moroccan dishes. I like the tagine kefta. Multiple locations, www.afriquia.ma
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Paloma Picasso
Terrasse des Épices
The Designer: Paloma Picasso
Creator of jewelry for Tiffany, including a line inspired by Marrakesh, where she lives part-time
Genie’s Boutique // Mustapha Blaoui. Going into this interiors shop is like going into Aladdin’s cave. If there’s anything you’d like that he doesn’t have, you just have to ask for it—somehow in an hour or so it will appear before your eyes. 142-144 Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, Medina, 212-5-24-38-52-40
Custom Couture // Mohammed Rida Ben Zouine. At this tailor’s atelier, I can design what I want and get it made—Moroccan-looking dresses with a lot of embroidery or very simple, tailored things. 142 Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, Medina, 212-6-70-46-57-61
Saadian Tombs
Global Retreat // Riad Madani. Some friends own this hotel, which has one of the largest riad gardens in the medina. They’ve done the house up as though it were their own. One room is Chinese. There’s also a Picasso room with prints of my father’s work. 64 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, Medina, riad-madani.com
Serene Sanctuary // Saadian Tombs. I really like the striking architecture here, at the final resting place for members of the Saadi dynasty [dating to the late 16th century]. It’s so simple and uncluttered, yet very decorative, very bold. Rue de La Kasbah, Medina
Lunch With a View // Terrasse des Épices. I go here if I’m doing errands in the medina. It’s on top of a building, so you have a beautiful view: In winter you can see the Atlas Mountains and the snow. 15 Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, Medina, terrassedesepices.com
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Moha Fedal
The Chef: Moha Fedal
Owner of Dar Moha restaurant, host of the television show “Maghreb Al Adwak” (“Moroccan Taste”)
Country Retreat // Le Bled. A moment of real pleasure is when I return to this farm, the vegetable garden for my restaurant. It’s not far from the city, at the beginning of the road to the Ourika Valley, and there is a small hotel on the property. Douar Coucou Oasis Hassan II – Taseltant, Guéliz, lebledmarrakech.com
The mellah market sells fruits, vegetables, meat and fish.
Delightful District // The mellah. The historic Jewish neighborhood in the medina has an antiques market, and the market Al Khair has fruits and vegetables, meat and fish. Everything is authentic; it’s a feast for the tastes.
Gem of a Shrine // Mosque of El-Mansour. In the casbah of Marrakesh is this 12th-century building located near Bab Agnaou. It was nicknamed “mosque with the golden apples”—according to legend, the lanterns were made from the gold jewelry of the wife of 12th-century ruler Yacoub el-Mansour. Rue de la Kasbah, Medina
Late-Night Hotspot // Le Comptoir Darna. This restaurant and club attracts artists, businessmen, international celebrities and world travelers. After hours and hours of work, I love to have a break here, where the traditional and the modern are combined. There are shows with musicians and belly dancers in the later hours. Avenue Echouhada, Hivernage, comptoirmarrakech.com
Green Space // Agdal Gardens. This is the most beautiful place in Marrakesh, a park of about 1,000 acres just south of the medina. It’s a real haven.
Riad Madani hotel features a Picasso room with prints of the artist’s work.
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