Morocco offers a rare glimpse of Middle Eastern life with plenty of proper accommodations. CraveOnline
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* While many western tourists are reluctant to visit the Middle East, Morocco escaped much of the region’s trouble to remain viable. *
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CraveOnline, by Amy Guttman (December 4th, 2013) — The North African country of Morocco is one of few to have escaped the Arab Spring. Its liberal King, Mohammed VI instituted political reforms almost instantly after the uprising in Tunisia. Instead of clinging to power, he diluted it, drawing up a new constitution, giving Morocco’s Prime Minister and parliament more muscle.
King Mohammed VI also wasted no time holding free and fair elections, pre-empting an uprising.
Things aren’t perfect; the press is still censored, and there are a host of reasons why Moroccans aren’t content, but the country is stable, and warmly embraces tourists.
Just three hours from London, Marrakech is a city of souks filled with colorful wares and assertive, but friendly merchants who encourage tourists to haggle for goods, always finishing a deal with a handshake and a smile.
Berber, Arabic and French are the spoken languages, but most people speak English.
The Atlas Mountains are an easy day trip, and the coastal city of Essaouira makes a good sun break for two or three days.
As the sun sets in Marrakech, the Djemaa El-Fna Square, with its criss-crossing strung lights, is transformed into a carnival of food. Rows of vendors set up tables and chairs in front of their makeshift cooking stalls, each serving a different specialty. Some prepare fresh seafood, others the famous Merguez sausages, or snails in saffron sauce.
Eating is communal, and prices vary. Our meal of chicken brochettes, grilled eggplant and peppers, olives, salad and bread came to $12 — a bargain for the sheer pleasure of soaking up the vibrant atmosphere. Others serve pricier three-course meals.
Dessert is delivered on wooden carts, where, for $4-5, you fill a small box with date, fig, and almond filled cookies. Moroccan families mix with tourists, and hypnotic music adds to the authentic experience.
Just beyond the square, sits the Grand Bazaar. Each neighborhood has its own souk, many specializing in different things: spices, hardware, textiles, etc. The Grand Bazaar is the most touristy, and commands the highest prices, but is a good place to start.
Marrakech is divided into two parts: the Medina, the old city and the Gueliz, or Ville Nouvelle, new city. The Medina is full of character and serves up the real deal, while Gueliz gives a glimpse of modern Morocco, with fast food restaurants and multi-national chains.
The Medina is filled with Riads and dars, which are old Moroccan houses, each with an internal courtyard. Most riads have gardens, while dars tend to be simpler, but no less charming.
Staying in a riad or dar is a tourist attraction in itself. Behind the wooden doors, are slabs of marble and stone, elaborately cut like prisms, creating a kaleidoscope of light on blank walls. Each room is unique, and inspires an imaginative journey of what life was like when the home was first inhabited. The most wonderful part is that luxury matters less here. Good service and comfort are top priorities. Riads and dars so unique, it will be a memorable stay whether it’s three stars or five.
Just be warned there are no elevators.
Two and a half hours’ drive from Marrakech is Essaouira. The 18th century port city and haven for golfers, spa-lovers and sun-worshippers provides a respite from the hustle and haggling of Marrakech. Essaouira’s highlight is its small Medina, more charming than Marrakech, and its “get away from it all” resorts. Pairing the two cities for 5-7 days is a perfect combination of city adventure and chill-out time.
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