King Mohammed VI sends letter to President Obama expressing sympathy, solidarity over Boston Marathon bombing. MAP

Maghreb Arab Press (Rabat, Morocco, April 16, 2013)  —  HM King Mohammed VI sent a letter of compassion and solidarity to U.S. President Barack Obama, in which the Sovereign strongly condemned the despicable criminal attack against the International Marathon of Boston, which claimed the lives of several innocent people.

Here is the translation:

“Your Excellency, the President,

I learned with deep sorrow and indignation the news of the abominable crime which targeted the International Marathon Boston, killing many innocent people.

In this painful circumstance, I express, speaking on behalf of the Kingdom of Morocco, our firm condemnation of these atrocious crimes and our strong solidarity with the American people facing these reprehensible attacks, which are condemned by all religions and universal human values.

I also send, through you, my warm condolences and sincere sympathy to the bereaved families of the victims and the American people, praying the Almighty to surround the victims with His holy mercy and give You, and their relatives, patience and consolation, and grant the injured speedy recovery.

Praying to the Almighty to protect you and the American people from all evil, please accept, Your Excellency, the President, my sincere feelings of solidarity and sympathy.”

Boston Marathon struck by two bomb explosions, killing 3, injuring more than 150. AP

**Here in Morocco, news that America has again fallen under attack stirred and angered the population and its leadership. Our King, Mohammed VI, was the first foreign head of state to send prayers and condolences to US president Barack Obama and many who mourn.**

Huffington Post, by Ahmed Charai (April 17, 2013) — Again, people of good intent across the world grieve. The heinous terrorist attack on runners in the Boston Marathon is a sad reminder — for those who had moved on, whether in the United States or elsewhere — that the scourge of terrorism endures.

Here in Morocco, the news that America has again fallen under attack stirred and angered the population and its leadership. Our king, Mohammed VI, was the first foreign head of state to send prayers and condolences to U.S. president Barack Obama and the many who mourn. Words of bereavement from a distant Muslim country are to be sure a loaded message for the world’s superpower: Though it remains unclear at this writing whether the attack emanated from overseas, the memory of September 11 and America’s strained relations with parts of the Muslim region naturally engender mixed feelings about Muslim condolences. Yet for Moroccans, the visceral identification with America transcends religious difference. We were the first nation to recognize the United States — and our continuing alliance, from matters of diplomacy in the Arab world to counter-terrorism cooperation in the Horn of Africa, carries a sacredness all its own.

For us and for so many other societies, the Boston Marathon in particular highlights one of the many qualities that attract us to America: It is a magnet for international excellence. Though historic Boston is a city of hills, it is at the same time a level playing field for robust competition among athletes from every continent. In regions of the world where fairness and justice do not reign, Boston during its marathon remains a symbol and a model. And amid uncertainty about the future of revolutions in Cairo, Tunis, and Tripoli, Arabs know that Boston was once the cauldron of a revolution that did not fail. There is a hunger to better understand America’s early years: How did a nation in the throes of radical change blaze a path to independence that ensured civil society and the rule of law? We know that much of the answer lies in Boston.

What may have motivated the terrorists will become clear as clues in the unfolding investigation mature into facts, evidence, and, God willing, arrests. But for the moment, as the world waits in suspense, it is perhaps worthwhile to reflect on two possibilities:

If, on the one hand, the attack emanated from overseas, questions may reemerge for the United States about its unique role in the world and relations with a distant other. With economic uncertainties and a lost appetite for war, the challenge of mediating the distaste for conflict with desires for retribution will be agonizing; the legacy of September 11 and its aftermath will lead, perhaps, to new forms of introspection.

On the other hand, if a domestic terror group turns out to be the culprit, Americans will face questions that could be even more agonizing. As Muslims, we know this all too well: In recent years we have suffered thousands of fatalities from Islamist terror groups targeting our very own societies. We are the victims of ideologies that twist the religious and cultural tenets of which we are most proud. Our own historic “Bostons” — whether Baghdad, once a torchbearer of civilization; or Damascus, one of the oldest cities in the world — have become battlefields. Those of us who struggle for peace in these troubled lands have found inspiration in the United States for its capacity to look inward and think self-critically. As the dust begins to settle in Boston, I know that Americans will continue to inspire us, and pray that my country and region will go on to inspire them.

Ahmed Charai is publisher of the weekly Moroccan magazine ‘L’Observateur’

International Butterfly Show at Cincinnati’s Krohn Conservatory features sights, sounds of Moroccan bazaar, 16,000 butterflies in landscape of Islamic art & culture, with special kid’s programs. CityBeat

Cincinnati CityBeat, by Keith Bowers (Cincinnati, Ohio, April 17, 2013) — This year’s International Butterfly Show at Krohn Conservatory brings in an Arab North African twist and creates a beautiful spectacle in the process.

If you’ve never experienced the tastes, smells and sights of a Moroccan bazaar, then this event will get you there — at least in mind and spirit. More than 16,000 butterflies from majestic Morocco will soar and flutter through an exotic landscape of Islamic art and culture.

Passageways will be hung with woven carpets, embroidered fabrics, sparkling jewels and carved woods. What could be a better way to bring in the spring transition to summer?

As a bonus, special children’s programming will be held throughout the show.

10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily through June 30. $7; $6 seniors; $4 children; $12 for an unlimited admissions pin. Krohn Conservatory, 1501 Eden Park Drive, Mount Adams, cincinnatiparks.com/butterflyshow.

WORLD BANK: The Arab Spring, and its call for jobs and dignity, offers opportunities to adopt a new development model that benefits all citizens. New report offers formula for seizing opportunities.

*World Bank has 5 messages for MENA in “Jobs for Shared Prosperity“*

Jean R. AbiNader, Exec. Dir., Moroccan American Trade & Investment Center

MATIC, by Jean R. AbiNader (Washington, DC, April 18, 2013) — The World Bank has issued its fourth volume in the series Jobs for Shared Prosperity – Time for Action in the Middle East and North Africa. Well over 300 pages, the study provides its five main messages separately for those who need a super condensed summary. Reading through the messages, I noticed how clear it is that very few results can be achieved without strategies that integrate the resources and talents of the public and private sectors. Drawing on my experiences across the MENA region, there is much to be gained from cross-border sharing of best practices regardless of the differences in the economic profiles of the countries. Let’s look at the region in terms of the key messages of the study.

Message #1:

Labor markets in the MENA make poor use of the available human talent and resources, thus inhibiting the economic potential of countries and people in the region.

Current political dislocations aside, Arab countries, like much of the developing world, made post-independence choices that centralized economic growth around government institutions. Despite dramatic changes in society since then in population, education, middle class composition, ethnic/minority/gender issues, global market standards, etc., governments were slow to accommodate to the realities of today’s economies. Concurrently, vested interests working with their government counterparts too often dominated the private sector. This cronyism added to the obstacles inhibiting progressive economic policies. Human capital was collateral damage in this scenario since labor had little impact on employment standards in a system of regulated government-social services and little flexibility in labor markets.

Message #2:

Change the rules to create a dynamic private sector that capitalizes on the full range of the region’s human capital.

Government business regulations have been slow to shed their opacity; end interference in the business of business, and equitably protect the rights of owners and employees. A major incentive towards transparency is that all MENA countries require foreign direct investment (FDI), which requires attention to rule of law, accountability by government officials, and awareness of environmental impact. The World Trade Organization (WTO), bilateral trade agreements, and a host of multilateral treaties have helped shine a light on changes that must be made for an economy to be competitive.

Message #3:

Let skills flow into productive private sector jobs by realigning employment conditions in both the private and the public sector and rethinking labor regulation. Lower the barriers holding back women who want to work.

MENA governments can no longer be the employers of first or last resort. Coddling public sector employees in non-productive jobs limits economic efficiencies and distorts opportunities. Efforts to enhance the employment of youth and women will be advanced through adopting unemployment policies that enable transitions to the labor force and access to services that respect the needs of working families.

Message #4:

Make young people employable by closing information gaps, improving quality and relevance of skills, and partnering with the private sector in training.

These steps have become the mantra of US, international and local government programs to advance employment among young people. An interesting corollary to this focus on training programs is providing recognition to those who have acquired skills informally, through on-the-job experience.  Morocco is piloting a program called Validation des Acquis de l’Experience Professionelle (VAEP) to provide accreditation to workers who can demonstrate proficiencies that qualify them for advanced positions. Piloted through a cooperative agreement with the French government, VAEP originally started with the building trades in 2008, was expanded to textiles and clothing in 2011, and is poised to move into hospitality and meat processing. The bottom line is that professional skills validation through transparent proficiency examinations will “make it possible for employees to obtain diplomas or certificates outside of their initial schooling,” according to the article in Le Soir.

Message #5:

Use short-term interventions to respond to immediate needs while building credibility and consensus for medium-term, game changing reforms.

Demands for jobs, training, market-focused education, and transparency will not be satiated by government promises. Public-private partnerships can be a critical vehicle for identifying quick start-up projects and programs that support jobs for those marginalized and underutilized in current labor markets. Government subsidies for employment can be used more efficiently when tied to needs identified by current and future employers. The success of longer-term reforms of labor regulations, jobs training and education, gender-related policies, and workplace health and safety rules can be facilitated by piloting initial efforts at these reforms in short-term programs that deliver jobs and generate data that supports new policies.

The World Bank’s Jobs for Shared Prosperity, like the Arab Human Development Reports of a decade ago, offers a serious and methodical critique of how to take an under-performing region and enhance its prospects by freeing its most abundant resource – its people – from antiquated and ineffective labor constraints. Empowering employees is at the heart of building local stability and prosperity in the MENA, and it is an agenda that can no longer be postponed.

Jean R. AbiNader is Executive Director of the Moroccan American Trade and Investment Center

The 7th Fes Festival of Sufi Culture wrapped up April 17, highlighting “the importance of dialogue, listening to others and seeking common ground and a language that can be understood by all.” AFP/Ammar Abd Rabbo

**”We’re attracted by the relaxed nature of Sufism and the relaxed interpretation of Islam that’s far removed from all fanaticism.”**

–Young attendee, 7th Fes Festival of Sufi Culture

Magharebia, by Siham Ali (Fes, Morocco, April 19, 2013) — Morocco on Wednesday (April 17th) wrapped up the 7th Fes Festival of Sufi Culture, an event dedicated to the promotion of intercultural dialogue.

The five-day event drew musicians, dancers and scholars from around the world, as well as many young people attracted by the message of Sufi Islam.

“The festival is open to all kinds of expression of Sufi cultures,” event director Faouzi Skalli said.

The goal of the event was to convey a positive image of Islam “through the universal language of openness and peace advocated by its spiritual voice, Sufism,” he added.

Another aim was to consolidate Morocco’s position in intercultural dialogue by building a bridge between East and West.

Festival participants stressed the importance of promoting Sufism at the regional and international levels, Tunisian writer and poet Abdelwahab Meddeb said.

Meddeb expressed concern at the way Islam was being used by certain parties and expressed regret over the destruction of Sufi shrines by extremists in Tunisia.

The return to the spirit of Sufism “is unquestionably a healthy path because Sufism enables us to create open structures and a proper strategy for otherness,” he said.

“It is important to highlight the values of Sufism, which are based on the importance of dialogue, listening to others and seeking common ground and a language that can be understood by all,” researcher Said Bennani said.

Festival participants noted that Sufi Islam can combat backward ideology, especially at a time of growing fundamentalism and radicalism.

Morocco has always paid particular attention to Sufism through the presence of several brotherhoods throughout the country, sociologist Samira Kassimi told Magharebia.

“These brotherhoods play a very important role in the spread of knowledge, best practice and the principles of tolerance, peace and brotherhood. At the moment, Sufism is confronted by the heresy of religious fundamentalism and represents the voice of the middle course,” she said.

Many people emphasised the need to get young people interested in the culture in order to help them find the path to serenity while remaining open to different cultures, Kassimi said.

“We’re attracted by the relaxed nature of Sufism and the relaxed interpretation of Islam that’s far removed from all fanaticism,” young festival attendee Hicham Maameri told Magharebia.

Morocco has a functioning parliamentary system. In 2011 Moroccan voters approved Constitutional reforms proposed by King Mohammed VI that enshrine women’s and ethnic rights, strengthens role of Parliament, and began regionalization to shift power to local communities. Photos: CNN/AFP

**”Today in the Maghreb, where most populations are preyed upon either by unchecked authority or unchecked anarchy, Morocco is different. This is not an accident.”**

Commentary Magazine, by Abe Greenwald (April 4, 2013) — Not all “Arab unrest” is equal. Consider these current headlines out of North Africa and try to spot the odd man out: “Libya’s south teeters toward chaos — and militant extremists,” “Egypt Takes Another Step Toward Autocracy—and Instability,” “Tunisia Sees Rising Jihadist Threat,” “Thousands march against Morocco government.” Chaos, autocracy, jihad, and … marching.

Today in the Maghreb, where most populations are preyed upon either by unchecked authority or unchecked anarchy, Morocco is different. This is not an accident.

I was recently in Morocco, as a guest of its Institute of African Studies, and the point most Moroccans tried hardest to impress upon me was that their country is fundamentally unlike the failing and convulsed states around it.

And so it is. The kingdom has a functioning parliamentary system. And in 2011, responding to the sentiments unleashed by the Arab Spring, King Mohamed VI held a referendum on the country’s constitution. The resulting document calls for greater participation of elected parties and a Moroccan prime minister. It also newly enumerates a welcome assortment of rights and freedoms.

A large-scale decentralization effort is underway to transfer various responsibilities from the king to elected bodies around the country. Whether the diffusion of power will be mostly genuine or cosmetic, continuous or stalled, remains to be seen. But Morocco is certainly not Libya or Egypt or Tunisia.

Mohamed VI appears to be sincere reformer but he is undoubtedly a savvy King. He set Morocco on reform path a decade before Arab Spring. Expanding space for consensual governance was best way to preserve monarchy. Commentary

Mohamed VI appears to be a sincere reformer but he is undoubtedly a savvy king. Expanding the space for consensual governance was the best way to preserve the monarchy. A quick glance around the region tells you all you need to know about rulers who swam against the spring tide. And in truth, Morocco’s previous king, the far tougher Hassan II, began a program of very modest reform in the 1990s, long before Arab tweeters celebrated their flash-mob “victory” in Tahrir Square. So today Moroccans occasionally march, in small and peaceful numbers. It is a blessing that shouldn’t go unnoticed.

But while Moroccan achievement deserves praise, it’s no guarantee of long-term stability or moderation. On this, it was my turn to impress the point upon several Moroccans. The topic came up in regard to the Justice and Development Party (PJD), the largest party in parliament and that of the Moroccan Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane. PJD, you see, is Islamist. And while some Moroccans expressed concern about what PJD members would do if they came to office in future local elections, most were quick to point out that the king and the constitution simply render authentic political Islam a non-starter. Additionally, PJD is widely understood to be that ever-elusive, quasi-mythic giant squid of Middle Eastern affairs—a moderate Islamist party.

It’s true that in my limited travels I witnessed a good deal of modern and indulgent living, and the Islamists in office cast no shadow on the day-to-day affairs of those with whom I came into contact. I saw many accomplished, uncovered women drinking alcohol and spied only a handful of dour men with fanned beards.

After the November 2011 Parliamentary elections, King Mohammed VI asked the winning PJD party leader, Abdelilah Benkirane, to be Head of Government and put together a governing coalition.

But “It can’t happen here” is an insufficient credo for any people anywhere. It undermines vigilance. And Morocco’s wonders notwithstanding, liberal Moroccans can’t afford to be complacent. The world has yet to see a self-described moderate Islamist party hold to its vow of moderation over the long term. Moreover, within Morocco’s diverse human mosaic reside hundreds of thousands of decidedly non-moderate Islamists. These are the members or associates of the organization Justice and Charity. Unlike PJD, Justice and Charity is non-political. But it wasn’t so long ago that we were assured the Muslim Brotherhood had no designs on the Egyptian presidency.

Historically, the appeal of political Islam owes much to the absence of other compelling political ideas. I thought of this when a Moroccan women’s rights champion explained to me that in her country “politics isn’t connected to values. Politics is about power.” When every other party’s platform is as inspiring as an NFL team playbook, the sincerity and purpose of the Islamists’ can shine in comparison.

This is all to say that King Mohamed VI is threading the eye of an unforgiving needle. He must proceed with democratic decentralization quickly and blatantly enough to satisfy a reform-minded public, but not so recklessly as to give newly empowered parties the means to undermine the largely moderate nature of Morocco.

In the context of the Arab Spring, Barack Obama has talked often about the need for democratic change to come from within a given country. He’s articulated his preference for reform over revolution and has pledged to stand by leaders who show a willingness to move forward on human rights issues. It would seem, therefore, that the president should take a special interest in Morocco.

In February Moroccan leaders came to Fez for restoration of Slat Alfassiyine synagogue, which the King said was “eloquent testimony to the spiritual wealth and diversity of the Kingdom of Morocco and its heritage.” Morocco’s Constitution guarantees the rights of Jewish, Christian, and Muslim religious practice, and recognizes Amazigh, Berber, as official language with Arabic, French. AFP

The most compelling case for American involvement in Morocco, however, rests on national security. For the United States, conflicts in Northern Africa largely go unnoticed—before manifesting as unignorable crises. One such conflict now festers in the Western Sahara and could soon become explosive. Tens of thousands of refugees reside in bare-bones camps in the Algerian town of Tindouf. The camps are controlled by the Polisario Front, an Algerian backed leftist group opposed to Moroccan control of the Western Sahara. That the camps are reportedly run like huge cruel prisons might evoke some Western sympathy. But that they have also reportedly become a recruiting grounds for al-Qaeda-linked groups should spur the United States to action.

As it happens, the action called for is of the very type Obama favors: non-military diplomacy based on mutual compromise. In 2007, Morocco proposed an autonomy plan for the Western Sahara. Broadly speaking, if agreed to, autonomy would mean Western Saharans could govern themselves within the framework of the Moroccan constitution, and the Polisario camps would disappear. American officials have contented themselves with voicing support for the initiative. But without active diplomatic action from the United States it’s doubtful the Polisario and Algeria will take the proposal seriously.

There’s no guarantee that the application of American diplomacy would bring the decades-old conflict to an end. But with some 50,000 nothing-to-lose desert refugees ripe for jihadist indoctrination, it’s hard to see the downside. Of course, the U.S. can always remain on the sidelines for another Mali- or Algeria-type conflagration to emerge and then watch as our allies try to put it out. Don’t assume, however, that we’ll always have Paris.

Green Prophet/Radiant Photos to Honor Earth Day: “Nothing stirs my soul quite like desert scenes.  This image was captured in the Sahara Dunes of Merzouga, Morocco, where I and other spent an evening eating delicious Moroccan food cooked in a tent, and listening to a Berber jam session.”

**Morocco: Sahara-Roots hosted a two day long Earth Day project in Ouarzazate, Morocco. The theme of the project was on the importance of environmental awareness, and they promoted this theme throughout campaigns in schools, tree plantings, and recycling events.**

Environment News Service/ENS (Washington, DC, April 22, 2013) – What started in 1970 as a teach-in about the environment has expanded year by year until Earth Day actions this year include more than one billion people in some 192 countries.

Many people are taking photos of their climate change experiences and sending them to the Earth Day Network to become part of an interactive digital display being shown at thousands of events around the world.

In Jalandhar, India, the Face of Climate Change is seen at a school where free saplings were given to students. The students planted the trees and learned about how reforestation impacts climate change. (Photo courtesy Earth Day Network)

From London to Sao Paolo, Seoul to Babylon City, New Delhi to New York, Rome to Cairo, people are mobilizing their communities to reveal what the Face of Climate Change, the theme of Earth Day 2013, means to them.

Earth Day Network, the organization that coordinates Earth Day around the world each year, is collecting the images of people, animals and places affected by climate change and of those taking action to fight climate change.

During the days surrounding Earth Day, an interactive digital display of all the images is being shown at thousands of events around the world as people continue to upload photos of their actions in real-time.

One of Earth Day Network’s biggest partners, The CO2 Green Drive Project, again planned a massive event that spans six cities on five continents for Earth Day 2013. The project is centered in Copenhagen and organized primarily by the Danish Cultural Institute. On Sunday, April 21, runners, bikers, pedestrians, skaters, and alternative fuel powered vehicles used their cities as canvases and a GPS tracking smartphone app as paint to create virtual images to spell out CO2 and other phrases to raise awareness of climate change risks.

A mountaineer in New Zealand reported on receding glaciers, an organization in Thailand showed their solar panel installation at a refugee camp on the Thai-Myanmar border, people are photographing themselves making art, holding demonstrations and carrying signs, playing music, planting trees.

“This interactive mosaic is depicting the very real impact that climate change is having on people’s lives and uniting Earth Day events around the world into one call for climate action,” said Franklin Russell, director of Earth Day at Earth Day Network. “The stories we’ve collected so far have been inspiring.” As of press time, the campaign had photo-testimonials from 128 countries and 46 U.S. states. And they will continue to pour in as events unfold today and throughout the week.

Organizers say they are “encouraged by the level of participation and enthusiasm” and plan to continue the campaign to build the climate movement. To view The Face of Climate Change photo display, go to www.earthday.org/faces.

To find out more about Earth Day 2013 and The Face of Climate Change, go to http://www.earthday.org/2013. To see highlights from The Face of Climate Change and Earth Day events around the world, go to www.earthday.org/highlights-submissions.

“Earth Day is the largest secular event in the world – and more people join in every year,” the Earth Day Network says. “On and around Earth Day, people of all ages and backgrounds come together to haul garbage, clean up coral reefs and mountain trails, show movies, sign petitions, march to solve the climate crises, hold town hall meetings to plan a better future, and rally to save endangered species.”

“Earth Day participants not only get a lot done, they also demonstrate that human beings everywhere are driven by their faith, their conscience, their sense of duty, or by a moral imperative to save the planet,” said Kathleen Rogers, president of Earth Day Network. “It is staggering to think about one billion people working together in a collective action.”

Highlights of Earth Day events

Asia:

Bangladesh: The Bangladesh Youth Environmental Initiative is integrating youth into the climate change adaptation process, teaching through interactive discussions and educational games. Their photo exhibit, The Earth 3600, shows the natural beauty of Bangladesh, environmental challenges and struggles with extreme weather events. All photos were added to The Face of Climate Change.

At Mount Cook, New Zealand, the Face of Climate Change is a mountaineer who sees the glaciers melting at a rapid rate. Glacial melting is contributing to rising sea levels, which threaten low-lying islands across Oceania. (Photo courtesy Earth Day Network)

Indonesia:  Earth Day Network partner the ROLE Foundation hosted a 50 km barefoot walk around the southern end of Bali that was supported by pledges from schools, governments, and hotels to help stop climate change and create a more sustainable world. The ROLE Foundation also had an Earth Day celebration and fundraiser with the theme of Sustainable Tourism in the Face of Climate Change. Tourism is Bali’s largest industry, supplying about 80 percent of the jobs among the Balinese population.

In Japan, Earth Day partner Earth Day Tokyo organized an Earth Day concert and talking series; the yearly event attracts thousands.

Nepal: The Metta School in Nepal had a tree planting camp for 1,000 students, a painting competition among 25 school teams, a cycling marathon, and a seminar on how to reuse and recycle paper in schools.

South Korea: Ecomom Korea in South Korea planned an Earth Day Flash Mob, an Earth Day Walkathon along the park, and an Earth Day Exhibition. They will  showcase The Face of Climate Change wall.

In Africa:

Cameroon: Manyu Non Timber Forest Products hosted educational programs on the negative effects of illegal logging, bush burning, and the bush meat tradeand the positive impacts of tree planting and training women on non-timber forest products collection.

Ghana: Rural Education and Development Programme’s cultural theatre troupe produced a play on the theme the Face of Climate Change on April 22 in one of the towns in their district. In the local schools they organized environmental and sanitation themed tests and an essay competition.

Iraq: Bent Al-Rafedain Organization in Iraq partnered with the Environmental Department of Babylon to create a media campaign to educate the general public and an awareness seminar to educate the local government on environmental problems.

Liberia: Developmental Media Incorporated in Liberia addressed policy regulation on charcoal production, firewood production, and the use of portable generators.  They staged and an advocacy event near to the home of Liberian President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf. Students sold promotional bumper stickers, T-shirts, and other items.

Morocco: Sahara-Roots hosted a two day long Earth Day project in Ouarzazate, Morocco. The theme of the project was on the importance of environmental awareness, and they promoted this theme throughout campaigns in schools, tree plantings, and recycling events.

Pakistan: Earth Day Pakistan planted 50,000 trees across the country in partnership with government departments, private and public hospitals, schools, colleges and universities, corporate partners, electronic and print media and individuals.

Sudan: The musical group 3 Meters Away presented a concert, cultural exchange forum, and other workshops for Earth Day 2013. They organized an environmental art exhibition entitled WALK, followed by a discussion on problems and solutions regarding the environment.

Tanzania: Foot 2 Afrika in Tanzania is working to address the melting snow cap of Kilimanjaro Mountain. For Earth Day 2013 they hosted a themed essay competition for colleges, primary, and secondary schools on how the mountain can be saved.

In Europe:

Armenia: Earth Day Network partner Armenia Tree Project planted trees with the United Nations Armenia Office and Armenia‘s Ministry of Foreign Affairs on April 16. Then on April 22nd, the group planted another set of trees in coordination with the United States Embassy in Armenia and the Armenian Volunteer Corps.

In Denver, Colorado a boy shows his Face of Climate Change as he expresses his concern for the future during a climate change demonstration. (Photo courtesy Earth Day Network)

Belarus: Earth Day Network partner Green Cross Belarus organized the 8th annual Children & Youth Art Contest “In My Homeland.” This year 15,000 participants from 30 countries submitted their creations – 486 of the best were displayed in an exhibition that opened at the National Ecological Center in Minsk on April 19 and is traveling across Belarus, Russia, and Ukraine during Earth Week.

Hungary: The Central European University in Budapest hosted an Earth Day event that reflects the growing biking culture. The Environmental and Sustainability Office held free bicycle repair workshops with the assistance of Hungarian Cycling Association volunteers, where the whole campus community learned how to perform routine bike repair and maintenance. They have refurbished seven bicycles as a pilot fleet for the first campus-wide bicycle share system in Hungary.

Moldova: Gutta Club in Moldova has planned a picture-contest around The Face of Climate Change Earth Day theme. They also planned a national tree-planting action.

The Netherlands: Earth Day Network partners Walas Concepts, Citaverde College, and KuS Art Organization organized a symbolic production of biofuel for Earth Day. They planted rapeseed and raised bees around the Walas Concepts building and on its rooftop garden. Once the bees have pollinated the plants and they bloom, volunteers will harvest the rapeseed and convert it into biofuel to demonstrate “how easy it is to produce a durable, environmentally friendly fuel.”

United Kingdom: The Savoy in the UK has planned a book swap, a River Thames shore clean-up, and a recycled plant pot drive in their office.

Australia: Keep Australia Beautiful organized a clean-up with representatives under 15 from across Australia. They compiled a video of each of them with pledge, message and community service announcement.

Micronesia: The Xavier High School in Chuuk, Micronesia planned an Earth Conference 2013 on the theme The Face of Climate Change with a neighborhood community cleanup. Schools from many islands gathered to hear guest speakers on climate change, participate in workshops, games and discussions and an environmental themed school song competition. Students were encouraged to start Earth Councils at their schools, to become active, to create environmental solutions.

New Zealand: Kawaipurapura planned an event that included a tree planting, a garbage initiative, a composting workshop, organic gardening classes, environmental films and activities for children, a social feel-good environmental theme dinner, and live entertainment.

Philippines: Greenwatch Philippines Inc. hosted the Negros Occidental Junior Green Artists Summer Competition, an on-the-spot-painting contest, on the theme, Climate Change in the Eyes of a Child. The project is in cooperation with the Negros Occidental provincial government, district representatives, local and school officials, teachers.

In the Americas:

Argentina: Surfrider Foundation planted evergreens and tamarisk shrubs to create a barrier against wind erosion, cleaned local beaches, and finished the day with live music and a tango exhibition.

Brazil: Viração in Brazil held a class and poster contest on climate change for teenagers on Earth Day. These posters were submitted to The Face of Climate Change website. They also held a vegan picnic with a seed exchange and Earth Day games.

Chile: Tenio Natural Reserve in Chile built a greenhouse with Colegio Nuevo Horizonte, a small, rural school, and opened it on Earth Day.

In the United States, nearly 1,000 showings of the “Do the Math” movie, on the math behind climate change, amplify the ongoing campaign to stop TransCanada’s proposed Keystone XL tar sands pipeline. Organizers are with 350.org, the nonprofit that takes its name from the number of parts per million of carbon dioxide scientists say is the safe limit to avert disastrous climate change. At 390 ppm, Earth has already passed the 350 ppm safe limit.

Campaigners with 350.org are pushing to get a million comments against the Keystone XL pipeline to the State Department before tomorrow’s Earth Day deadline. At over 971,000 comments, they’re close to the goal and putting on a final push.

Across the USA, the response to the Face of Climate Change project has been enthusiastic, says the Earth Day Network.

In Riverside, California, Seniors Go Green—in partnership with the Keep Riverside Clean and Beautiful Adopt A Street program—participate in a neighborhood clean-up to show their Face of Climate Change.

The Face of Climate Change is in Horicon, Wisconsin and so is the largest freshwater cattail marsh in the United States, an important breeding ground for waterfowl and the endangered whooping crane. Like much of the American Midwest, the Horicon National Wildlife Refuge suffered from extreme drought in 2012, stressing wildlife.

The impact of climate change on Horicon, Wisconsin (Photo courtesy Earth Day Network)

All across the United States millions of people came out to participate in Earth Day events in their communities.  Here are some of the highlights:

California: Santa Barbara Earth Day continued their annual festival for Earth Day 2013. The live-streamed event featured performers, a Green Car Show, a Kid’s Corner for education and entertainment, a Clean Tech Pavilion for technology demonstrations, and a Live Green station, where people can learn about how to live a greener, more sustainable life.

Florida: This year marked the 43rd Earth Day Tampa Bay celebration with a multitude of vendors including a farmers market, sustainable living demonstrations. Hosted by University of South Florida’s Patel College of Global Sustainability, Office of Sustainability, and Tampa Bay Sierra Club.

Illinois: Illinois Department of Natural Resources organized an Earth Day event entitled, “Earth Day in the Parks.” Their goal was to hold an event at every state park in the state.

Iowa: Iowa Interfaith Power and Light hosted a “Food, Faith, and Climate Workshop” It focused on connecting the dots between our food practices and climate change.

Massachusetts: Earthport Film Festival in Newburyport hosted its second annual Earth Day film festival, promoting awareness of climate change by showing short, independent films.

Missouri: The St. Louis Earth Day Festival hosted a symposium built around the theme Climate Trends: Impacts and Adaptation. The symposium was a two-day training and networking program for local government staff, officials, and the professional community that educated attendees on the impacts of climate change on water resources and subsequent adaptation strategies. They plan three more Earth Day events that are free and open to the public.

New York: White Plains, New York hosted its second citywide Earth Week Celebration showcasing the many Faces of Climate Change. There were demonstrations, environmental awareness workshops, contests, food, and music.

North Carolina: The Raleigh Museum of Natural Sciences hosted a free Planet Earth Celebration at the museum educating its participants in sustainable living through awareness.

Ohio: Green Columbus’ 7th Annual Earth Day Celebration is the largest volunteer service effort across the country.This year, on the weekend before Earth Day, volunteers pulled invasive plants, cleaned up neighborhoods, and prepared gardens in over 1,000 volunteer sites. Next weekend they will be celebrated with at a festival. Over the past seven years, Green Columbus’ Earth Day events have resulted in over 40,000 hours of donated labor and 19,000 newly planted trees.

Texas: Earth Day Texoma hosted workshops, vendors, speakers, electric and hybrid cars, e-waste recycling, a used book sale at a nearby library.

Washington: The University of Washington is hosting a post-Earth Day trash-in, where all the university’s waste for an entire day will be diverted to a central public space. Students will assist with sorting out recyclables to build awareness.

For more on Sahara Roots project in Ouarzazate, Morocco:

http://www.sahara-roots.org/uploads/Celebration%20of%20the%20Earth%20Day%20in%20Ouarzazate,%20Morocco%20on%2022%20and%2023%20April%202013.pdf

Filmed near Ourzazate, Morocco, Sunday’s “Game of Thrones” has stunning conclusion as Princess Daenerys Targaryen (Emilia Clarke) struggles to gain power, respect and do “greater good.” InsideTV

* Sunday’s Game of Thrones episode, filmed in Morocco, is “one of the most staggering things ever put on television.” Inside TV

*We wanted to make sure locations lived up to  grandeur of storyline. Essaouira, on Moroccan coast, doubled for Astapor.  Ait Benhaddou, on edge of Sahara (near Ouarzazate) doubled for Yunkai. New York Times

–Writer-producers, David Benioff and Dan Weiss*

Inside TV, by James Hibberd, YouTube (April 21, 2013) — The reason Game of Thrones exists as a TV series can be traced to a few key sequences in George R.R. Martin’s Song of Ice and Fire novels that several years ago convinced writer-producers David Benioff and Dan Weiss that they must somehow find a way to adapt the seemingly unfilmable saga.  Sunday’s Game of Thrones contained one such scene, a stunning conclusion where Daenerys Targaryen (Emilia Clarke) turned the tables on a city run by cruel slave masters.

Faced with having to give up one of her priceless dragons in order to acquire an 8,000-man army, the exiled princess questing for the Iron Throne risked everything by deciding to use one asset (the army) to keep the other (the dragon), and free a city of slaves in the process.

Though Dany’s dragons are purely digital creations, the final scene was breath-taking for viewers, fire-breathing for participants. InsideTV   (Click here to watch video)

The meticulously constructed sequence satisfyingly weaved together an action sequence (dragon attack!), a plot twist (she broke her word!) and character development (Dany becomes a leader!).

“It’s a hallmark of a number of scenes in [A Storm of Swords] where, in retrospect, I should have seen it coming because George laid out all the pieces, he had given you all the clues,” Benioff said.

“The best kind of surprises aren’t the ones that come out of nowhere. The best ones are where after you see it you’re asking yourself, ‘Why didn’t I see that was coming?’ I remember reading [Dany planning to give up Drogon to the slaver] and thinking, ‘Oh, this is kind of disappointing.’

Filming Game Of Thrones involved finding right locations to bring world of Westeros to life on our screens. For season 3, Game of Thrones went to Morocco, featuring Mother Of Dragons, Daenerys Targaryen (Emilia Clarke), in the most exotic of George R.R. Martin’s fictional world. NBC, UnrealityTV

When the real plan was revealed I think I even called [Weiss]. This was before we had met with George, when we were still trying to figure out if this show was possible. The culmination of that scene was one of those moments when we were like, ‘We got to make this [really] show.’ It was very gratifying seeing that wish fulfilled … I think it will be one of the most staggering things ever put on television.”

The sequence was filmed in Morocco last year over the course of three days by veteran TV producer-director Alex Graves, who guided Clarke and a large host of extras.

“What it was like for Emilia as an actor probably mirrored somewhat what it was like for Daenerys,” Weiss said. “She’s got to march into this giant overwhelming situation and immediately grab it by the throat and take charge and kick ass with it.”

The historical coastal town of Essaouira in Morocco was chosen to continue the adventures of Daenerys Targaryen in the city of Astapor. Image by Lukas Vermeer  Atlas of Wonders

Though Dany’s dragons are purely digital creations, the producers chose to use a practical effect to accomplish a key shot where the villainous slaver Kraznys is blasted with dragon fire. “They shot this [stuntman] full in the face with a flame-thrower that was up on a pole; it was a shockingly powerful thing to watch, even as a stunt,” Weiss said.

For Clarke, the scene represents a major turning point. Since the show’s first episode, Dany has been struggling to find an army, to gain respect, to find allies and to simply survive. With this move, she finally becomes “the dragon queen.”

Location at fortress of Aït Benhaddou near Ouarzazate, Morocco, seems a tale from 1,001 nights.

“Up until that moment, she’s relied on everybody else’s opinion to form her own because she didn’t know any better,” Clarke said. “She doesn’t have any experience to back up what she’s going to do, she just has her own gut. And everyone around her is assuming she will just give Drogon up — which is ridiculous for the mother of a child. It’s the biggest risk she’s ever taken in her entire life and there’s that moment of wondering whether the Unsullied are going to respect her. It’s the moment she becomes who she was always destined to be.”

The scene also suggests a direction for her character — a leader who fights not just to gain power for herself, but to free the oppressed. “There’s this gorgeous line in the book where Dany says, ‘Do you think I’ve forgotten what it feels like to be sold?’ because she was too,” Clarke said. “She is out there for the greater good.”

Bookings in Ouarzazate, Morocco, also known as ‘door of the desert,’ jumped 100% since season premiere of Game of Thrones, HBO’s epic series that has gained followers around world.  Euronews

For more, read EW’s ‘Game of Thrones’ Episode 4 recap, “The Girl With the Dragon Snafu,” which includes a deep-dive on the unleashing scene.

Museum of Moroccan Judaism — Casablanca, Morocco

**One of the only institutions of its kind in the Arab world**

Jewish Telegraphic Agency/JTA (April 23, 2013) — The Museum of Moroccan Judaism, one of the only institutions of its kind in the Arab world, was reopened in Casablanca after months of renovations.

Museum of Moroccan Judaism — Casablanca

The re-opening ceremony earlier this month was attended by Moroccan government officials, the museum’s president Jaques Toledano and Samuel Kaplan, the U.S. ambassador to Morocco and a past president of the Minneapolis Jewish Federation, according to the Moroccan news site LNT.ma.A few dozen people attended the re-opening of the museum, whose halls were filled with the sound of violins and scent of incense and orange blossom. The museum, with a floor space of a few hundred square yards, features photos of synagogues from across the kingdom, Torah scrolls and Chanukah lamps, Moroccan caftans embroidered with gold; jewels ancient rugs and various objects of Jewish-Moroccan cultural heritage.

Museum of Moroccan Judaism — Casablanca

“It’s not a fancy museum, but it contains some real treasures of cultures,” said Joel Rubinfeld, co-chair of the European Jewish Parliament, who saw the museum last month during a visit for talks with Moroccan officials.

Founded fifteen years earlier by the Jewish community of Casablanca, the museum was later managed by the Foundation of Moroccan Judaism under its chief administrator, Simon Levy. The building was renovated following his death in 2011.

Morocco has about 3,000 Jews, a tenth of its original Jewish population before the establishment of the state of Israel.

The Museum of Moroccan Judaism in Casablanca features photos of synagogues from across the kingdom, Torah scrolls and Chanukah lamps, Moroccan caftans embroidered with gold; jewels ancient rugs and various objects of Jewish-Moroccan cultural heritage.

HBO’s Game of Thrones inspires travel to Morocco

EuroNews, CANOE (April 22, 2013) — Hotel bookings in the desert town of Ouarzazate, Morocco have experienced a 100% spike since the season premiere of “Game of Thrones,” the epic fantasy TV series that has garnered a cult following around the world.

According to online reservation site LateRooms.com, hotels set in filming locations such Ouarzazate, also known as the ‘door of the desert,’ and Iceland are seeing a noticeable spike in bookings since the third season of the HBO series started on March 31 in the US.

The same trend was observed when season two featured settings from Dubrovnik: hotels in the Croatian city likewise spiked 28% in 2012.

While Ouarzazate has seen a 100% increase, Iceland — also the site of some of the show’s medieval scenes — saw a modest 13% hike in bookings.

The Ouarzazate area is a popular area for filmmakers, and has set the scene for other epic films such as the 1962 version of “Lawrence of Arabia” with Peter O’Toole, “The Mummy,” and Russell Crowe’s “Gladiator.“

Student looks at display at Judaism Museum, Casablanca Jan 28, 2011. Photo: A. Senna/AFP

Al Monitor, by Meryem Saadi, from TelQuel (April 22, 2013) — In the coming years, all the museums in Morocco will be renovated and new ones will emerge. Below are the reasons driving this initiative.

At the headquarters of the Museum Foundation in the Hassan district of Rabat, ensconced in his office decorated with paintings, photographs and sculptures by contemporary Moroccan artists, Mehdi Qotbi shares the objectives of the organization he has headed since December 2011.

“The museum has only effectively been functional for six months. It took us some time to develop our offices and to recruit a dynamic team that is well-informed on the topic of museums,” explains the artist. Yet Qotbi lost no time in building relationships with the Ministry of Culture and with major French museums. It has been quite the opposite.

Morocco currently has 13 museums, which have hitherto been overseen by the Ministry of Culture. With the establishment of the foundation, however, everything has changed. In a few months, they will all be formally under the authority of the institution managed by Qotbi. During the last three months, a tripartite commission composed of the foundation, the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Finance has toured all the museums in the four corners of the country, with the objective of preparing a detailed report on the sites’ conditions and the works of art they contain.

Culture in action

“It was very important for us to list the existing museums before embarking on a clear renovation strategy,” said Qotbi.  The next step will be to find funding to improve the condition of the museums. Qotbi is already knowledgeable on the subject and has started to seek answers from several large Moroccan companies.

“The idea is to reach a point where each of several large companies takes the helm of renovating a museum. I’m pretty confident about this. We already have several agreements in principle,” he said.

Another of the foundation’s objectives is to create several new museums of international standards. The first of its kind is the National Museum of Contemporary Art in Rabat, work on which resumed a few months ago.

“People are sometimes surprised that it is not yet finished, since the project began nine years ago. You should know that even in Europe, projects of this magnitude can take more than 10 years,” noted Qotbi. If all goes well, this impressive museum will open its doors to the public in 2013. Other museums are also under study, and, in the long run, the aim is to have a museum in every large Moroccan city.

“We are also thinking hard with the Ministry of Tourism and the General Confederation of the Enterprises of Morocco about a way to integrate the museums in the tourism policy of the country and ensure that they are an essential stop for tourists,” added Qotbi.

A communication strategy will also be exclusively dedicated to Moroccan citizens. “We want these places to be accessible to all Moroccans, so they can take ownership of their culture. This is why entrance to the museum is free for them on Fridays and Saturdays,” said Qotbi.

However, before that, one of the biggest concerns of the foundation is the lack of qualified personnel to manage these museums. Indeed, Morocco sorely lacks art experts and museum and art curators. To overcome this problem, the foundation has signed various agreements in Europe to train Moroccans in these new professions.

The prestigious Louvre Museum is one of the main cooperators, as well as the Arab World Institute and the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations based in Marseille. It is true that the task at hand will require long-term efforts, but they will eventually pay off.

Maghreb interior ministers pose at a recent AMU meeting in Rabat. [AFP/Fadel Senna]

Magharebia, by Jemal Oumar (Nouakchott, Mauritania, April 23, 2013) — Judges from Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Mauritania and Libya are advocating increased integration and legal reform throughout the Maghreb region.

Meeting in Nouakchott last week for the Maghreb Union (UMA) judiciary committee session, they discussed the economic and social advantages to greater co-operation.

“The support and development of the judicial and legal dimension between Maghreb countries would be good for the development of trade,” UMA Secretary-General Habib Ben Yahia told the 10-member committee and other legal observers on April 15th.

Convergence “between components of the federal system, both at the judiciary and legal levels”, he said, “will make them keep pace with the economic, social and cultural transformations witnessed by union states in light of globalisation”.

He pointed out that a role was given to the judiciary in the drafting of the Maghreb arbitration system. The system will be in line with the provisions of the convention to promote investment between regional countries with regard to judicial guarantees and settling disputes.

“The establishment of a Maghreb system framed within developed principles and rules will help resolve issues… such as organised crime, terrorist activities and drug smuggling,” Ben Yahia said.

“In addition, economic and trade relations between the countries of the union and the world are expanding at a fast pace and are suffering from many disagreements and disputes.”

Judges and Maghreb legal experts participating in the meeting discussed several legal projects in order to make the necessary adjustments. They hope that they will be presented to the relevant ministerial councils and to the next session of the UMA Council of the Presidency.

According to legal analyst Bashir Ould Mohamed, the gathering was a step on the road to closer judicial co-operation between Maghreb countries, especially in the field of standardisation of laws governing cross-border crime.

“I think that the primary beneficiary will be peoples before governments, because they are the ones who usually pay the price for the impunity of criminals who circumvent laws to carry out their crimes,” he told Magharebia.

For Moulay Ould Sidi Mohamed, a graduate student in law, “emerging challenges require a unified vision and goals by Maghreb countries, not just laws.”

Even “a slight difference in the laws of these countries”, he said, can end up “halting or obstructing a case concerning a large group of people.”

“This is no longer acceptable in today’s world,” he said.

Swiss solar-powered plane Solar Impulse prepares to begin flight across US May 1. Seen above over Sahara last year on record-breaking intercontinental flight to desert city of Ouarzazate, Morocco.

Click Here to Watch VIDEO of CBS Evening News Report

** “Solar Impulse has already flown over the Alps in Switzerland where it was built. It has even flown over Morocco at night on batteries recharged by the sun.” **

CBS Evening News with Scott Pelley, by John Blackstone,  MATIC (Mountain View, Calif., April 24, 2013) — The unusual aircraft called Solar Impulse sat on a California runway as its energy source rose in the east.

The plane has already flown over the Alps in Switzerland where it was built. It has even flown over Morocco at night on batteries recharged by the sun.

Solar Impulse flies over Moroccan capital, Rabat, on 1st stop last year in N. African nation.

We took a close look with Sully Sullenberger, the retired pilot who safely landed a US Airways jet in the Hudson River.

“It’s exciting to be so close to this fabulous machine,” he tells Andre Borschberg, who designed and built Solar Impulse with fellow pilot Bertrand Piccard.

“It’s exciting to meet you,” Borschberg says.

“When we meet you before a flight, maybe we need the life jackets,” Piccard jokes.

The aircraft has the same wingspan as a 747 but a cockpit barely big enough for one person.

It weighs only as much as a midsize car.

“We are sensitive to turbulence,” Piccard says.

“We have to fly in good weather. So, of course, it’s not yet the possibility of carrying 200 passengers at the speed of sound, but you never know. It can come.”

Its wings are covered with 12,000 solar cells. It cruises at only 30 miles an hour, though in a strong wind, it may stand still — even fly backward.

Solar Impulse HB-SIA, solar-powered airplane that can fly at night, being prepped to fly across US in 5 legs beginning May 1. Seen here in hangar, Mountain View, Calif. CBS News, Photo: J. Martin/CNET

18 Photos - Solar Impulse set to soar on U.S. tour

“In the 20th century, the goal was to conquer the world — conquer the planet, even go to the moon,” Piccard says.

“Go faster, higher, farther,” Sullenberger adds.

Watch: Solar-powered plane aims to fly around the world.
CBS 60 Minutes

“Exactly,” says Piccard. “Now we’ve seen that we can conquer everything, but I think we should now conquer the quality of life. And we have to do it in a clean way.”

The test flight over San Francisco Bay lasted 16 hours — long after the sun had set.

Asked why aviation has the power to inspire, Sullenberger says, “There’s something special about being able to leave the earth and not being bound by it.”

The Solar Impulse pilots, like Sully Sullenberger, have accomplished things in flight that seem impossible. Their hopes, like their aircraft, are not bound by the earth.

In Ouarzazate, Morocco, Solar Impulse pilot reviews advances in renewable energy to cross Sahara

MATIC: Last year soared over Moroccan Sahara on record-breaking intercontinental flight

In June 2012, the Solar Impulse made its historic 2,500-kilometer (1,550-mile) journey from Switzerland to Madrid, then Rabat and Ouarzazate, Morocco, site of a World Bank-financed solar energy project where Morocco is building the world’s largest solar-thermal plant to harness the power of the Sahara sun for North Africa and potentially Europe.

In November 2012, Morocco secured additional European financing that now totals more than $400 million, and signed a $1 billion deal with Saudi Arabia’s ACWA Power International to supply Morocco with electricity from the 160-megawatt plant for 25 years. It is the first of five sites that will ultimately produce up to 2,000 megawatts of renewable, clean energy and create many jobs in the area.

“I hope that Europe will learn from Morocco’s example,” said Pilot Bertrand Piccard after landing on the return trip to Madrid last summer. “It’s precisely during times of global crisis that there needs to be an investment in renewable energies and energy savings, providing us with what’s necessary to sustain employment, purchasing power and a positive trade balance. Thank you Morocco.”

Mustapha Bakkoury, President of the Moroccan Agency for Solar Energy (MASEN) said the solar plane is playing an important role in raising awareness about solar energy’s potential to reduce global dependence on oil. “We share a common message with Solar Impulse.” He said Morocco plans to be producing solar energy when Solar Impulse makes its round-the-world tour.

Photo: Solar Impulse flight to Rabat and Ouarzazate, Morocco last year coincided with launch of World Bank-financed solar project in Morocco to connect continents with power from Sahara sun

For more information on Solar Impulse & Morocco’s solar energy plans:

• Solar Impulse team: http://live.solarimpulse.com/
• Moroccan Agency for Solar Energy (MASEN): http://www.masen.org.ma/index.php?Id=undefined&lang=en      (English language available)
• Morocco’s Agence Nationale pour le Développement des Energies Renouvelables et de l’Efficacité Energétique (ADEREE): http://www.aderee.ma/ (English language available).

Girls play in street near Praia in Cape Verde islands June 5, 2005. Steps are entrance to Jewish cemetery. (AFP, Alexander Joe)

**”Think about it: here is a benevolent Muslim monarch contributing to honoring Jewish heritage in a predominantly Catholic country,” said Carol Castiel, a Washington journalist who heads the non-profit Cape Verde Jewish Heritage Project**

AFP, by Robert MacPherson, JTA (Washington, DC, April 26, 2013) — A handful of descendants of Cape Verde’s small but influential Jewish community are traveling to the West African archipelago to honor the memory of their ancestors and their unique heritage.

Next Thursday, they will re-dedicate the long-neglected Jewish burial plot within the Varzea municipal cemetery in the islands’ capital Praia that has been restored with financial help from Morocco’s King Mohammed VI.

Morocco’s King Mohammed VI

“Knowing my past is very important for me,” John Wahnon, 71, whose great-grandfather and great-great-grandfather immigrated to Cape Verde from Gibraltar in the 19th century, told AFP on Thursday.

“It gives me a sense of continuity,” said the Washington-area resident, who immigrated to the United States — home to nearly half a million people of Cape Verdean descent — as a young adult.

Some 350 miles (570 kilometers) off the African mainland, Cape Verde’s 10 islands — a maritime waypoint between Europe and South America — were uninhabited when they were colonized by Portugal in the 15th century.

Several hundred Jews from Morocco arrived in the 19th century, starting businesses and taking up government posts while intermarrying with the predominantly Roman Catholic majority.

“For Cape Verde, the Jewish community was maybe few in number, but they were influential in terms of economic development,” said Carol Castiel, a Washington journalist who heads the non-profit Cape Verde Jewish Heritage Project.

“These were families that had an inordinate impact on Cape Verde’s development — whether it’s the Wahnons, the Benoliels, the Benros, the Cohens — and it’s an unwritten chapter,” she told AFP.

Wahnon’s own ancestors settled in Mindelo, a bustling 19th century port of call for transatlantic shipping that, more recently, is best-known for internationally celebrated Cape Verdean musicians such as the late Cesaria Evora.

Without giving figures, Castiel said Morocco’s monarch had been “a major benefactor” to a fund-raising drive to restore the Jewish burial plot in Praia, one of a number scattered around the islands.

Carol Castiel & Salamiths Spencer at Jewish cemetery on Cape Verde

He was motivated by a wider interest in preserving his kingdom’s Sephardic Jewish heritage, said Castiel, who personally discovered Cape Verde in the 1980s, when she oversaw US scholarship programs for Portuguese-speakers.

“Think about it: here is a benevolent Muslim monarch contributing to honoring Jewish heritage in a predominantly Catholic country,” she said.

Joining the descendants from Europe and the United States for the re-dedication ceremony will be Lisbon’s chief rabbi Eliezer Shai di Martino and Cape Verdean officials.

Going forward, Castiel said the Cape Verde Jewish Heritage Project hopes to restore other Jewish burial plots — two on Santo Antao, across a narrow strait from Mindelo, and one on Boa Vista — and pursue historical research.

Jean R. AbiNader, Exec. Dir., Moroccan American Trade & Investment Center

MATIC, by Jean R. AbiNader (Washington, DC, April 26, 2013) — I must admit that sometimes I am a bit confused by how some very good people frame their analyses of MENA issues.

A recent case in point is a blog by Frederic Hof, one of my favorite writers on the Levant.

Frederic C. Hof, Atlantic Council

He writes that the major question for the Arabs is “what will follow the Ottoman system as the true source of political legitimacy?  The emerging answer is that for governments to be legitimate, they must ultimately derive their powers from the consent of the governed. This, in my view, is the meaning of the Arab Spring.”

Well, historical antecedents aside…that is a useful, as yet unvalidated, position.

He goes on to write:

Since the downfall of the four hundred-year empire only ninety years ago, Arabs have struggled to find the location of the stabilizing political legitimacy that once resided in the system of the Sultan-Caliph.

Legitimacy has nothing to do with whether people approve or disapprove of the performance of a particular leader or government.

It has everything to do with the right of a government to govern, whether it does so well or poorly. It is the system that is important; not the person.

Frederic Hof discusses Arab Spring protests in “Consent of the Governed: A New Middle East Political Order?” Above: Demonstrators in Tahrir Square in Egypt.

To speak of the Ottoman system or any of its predecessors as having the “right” to govern the Arab lands any more than other colonial powers turns history a bit on its head.

However, his point that “it is the system that is important” is a hypothesis worth testing under the current tempest of transitions in the MENA region.

Perhaps the first consideration is where political legitimacy resides.

Since the only clear example of retained legitimacy in North Africa after the Arab uprisings is Morocco, which was not ruled by the Ottomans and certainly did not cede legitimacy to the French and Spanish occupations, the legitimacy question is more applicable to Tunisia, Libya, and Egypt.

Demonstration at Hippodrome in Ottoman empire. Photo: Wikipedia

None of these countries yet has a constitution as the basis for governing, and so the jury is still out on the “system” of governance.

In the contestation between Islamic parties and their “secular” counterparts, it is unclear where the mantle of leadership will be awarded by “the consent of the governed.”

Those who are not fans of the Islamic government in Egypt should as well be concerned about the “tyranny of the majority” from the left or the right.

In a recent Viewpoints paper produced by the Wilson Center, Marina Ottaway analyzes the steps secular parties can take to be more competitive in Tunisia and Egypt. Her central theme is that “the secular opposition…has been unable to develop a clear message, build viable political parties, or overcome its fragmentation.”

Marina Ottoway
Woodrow Wilson Center

It is a telling assessment when combined with a recent remark by an Arab head of state visiting Washington, DC, who said that “there is no Arabic or Hebrew word for strategy,” focusing on the need for Arab countries to consult more seriously on complex issues such as Syria and the peace process.

While it may be that political leadership in these countries is still in flux, the bottom line, according to Ottaway is, “The transitions that started with the 2011 uprisings will not lead to a democratic outcome unless a better balance is established between Islamist and secular forces…The real issue is that democracy does not depend on the behavior of one party or faction, but on a pluralistic and balanced political spectrum. And that balance must be established in the electoral arena.” [emphasis added] And here is the challenge of history: How do societies wherein political, religious, ethnic, and socio-economic differences have been exploited for generations regard others as fellow seekers for justice and equality? How do elections, which historically have been engineered to satisfy narrowly defined constituencies, all at once become an expression of the will of the people, of “the consent of the governed?” How do issues of emerging political identities avoid being strapped with religious or personality-driven labels that stereotype their agendas before they are subject to the realities of the political marketplace of negotiation?

Ottaway offers several prescriptions to secular parties on how to capture the high ground in the political landscape: develop a clear message; develop an organization; and unite their leadership. She points out that the Islamic parties in Egypt and Tunisia have yet to articulate clear economic platforms that define their actions for governing. The secular parties “have also failed so far to suggest their own remedies in a way designed to gain broad support.” Let me suggest that perhaps this is an area where the Morocco experience may be helpful. The government’s economic plans are well articulated and targeted but have foundered in winning Parliamentary approval. At least the people know what they voted for, even if it has not yet been delivered.

Ottoway believes that the lack of cohesive secular political parties reflects, in many ways, the “social distance that separates the secular leadership from much of the population.” Again, when I look at Morocco, where the PJD and Istiqlal parties have maintained solid support among their members, they stand in contrast to less cohesive parties elsewhere. As Ottaway remarks, “….they need to decide that the non-glamorous task of building machines is worth the effort and they do not appear to have done so thus far.” This is a lesson across the Maghreb where public patience should not be taken for granted.

Finally, there is the issue of leadership, where “Individuals who in theory share the same ideals of a democratic country that protects human rights and individual freedoms, respects diversity, and takes its place among modern nations are showing little inclination to work together for the common goal.” It is counter-intuitive for politicians, who seek the limelight to illuminate their positions, to defer to others and trust in coalition-building in which they are not prominently featured. Many people in the region have long lamented the lack of an Arab Nelson Mandela, but hand-wringing does not enlarge the capacity for thoughtful and effective leadership in the region. As the Arab peoples embark on perhaps their first realistic opportunity in modern times to own their political legitimacy, the first step may be to actually build a consensus of the governed rather than proclaiming their differences.

Jean R. AbiNader is Executive Director of the Moroccan American Trade and Investment Center

Morocco’s Head of Government, Abdelilah Benkirane, signed 17 new cooperation accords with Mauritania on April 23rd. His first objective: visa policy changes. [cg.gov.ma]

Magharebia, by Jemal Oumar (Nouakchott, Mauritania, April 26, 2013) — Morocco and Mauritania agreed this week to partner for more than a dozen new social and economic projects, from vocational training to energy.

Accords in transportation, construction, education, training, scientific research, energy, water, agriculture, fishing and marine resources, housing, sanitation and the “transfer of persons and goods” were among the 17 deals inked Wednesday (April 24th) in Nouakchott.

In his address to the countries’ 7th High Joint Commission session, Moroccan Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane called for the removal of any obstacles standing in the way of increased co-operation in all fields.

He began by proposing an end to visa requirements between Mauritania and Morocco.

Countries already have monitoring mechanisms, he said, to identify who means well and who has ill intentions.

“Mauritania and Morocco are brought together by solidarity, good neighbourship, joint interests and unshakable historic and future trends,” Benkirane told the gathering of government officials and business leaders.

“The Moroccan Kingdom and the Islamic Republic of Mauritania bear an historic responsibility to give a true meaning to the nature of the relationship between two countries that are linked together,” Benkirane added.

He expressed a will to expand co-operation within the Maghreb to better serve the interests of its member states.

“If we look at the world today, at global alliances and forces, and the position of emerging countries in the world, we realise that we have no right to let down the peoples of the Maghreb,” the Moroccan prime minister said.

“This is a region our forefathers struggled to secure,” he said. “To undermine the aspirations of Maghreb populations, linked by a common history, would constitute a crime.”

The importance of strengthening co-operation with Morocco and the Maghreb did not escape Mauritanian Prime Minister Moulaye Ould Mohamed Laghdaf.

He called on Moroccan business leaders to invest in his country’s fishing, mining and agriculture sectors.

“The treaties and agreements signed between Mauritania and Morocco are yet another building block added to this true bilateral collaboration,” he said at the end of the two-day meeting.

“Economic, cultural and social relations between Mauritania and Morocco have been born by ties of blood and kinship, and promoted by political leaders, educated elites and economic players over the ages,” Ould Mohamed Laghdaf added.

Commenting on what the new agreements mean for the future Maghreb Union, political analyst Said Ould Habib noted the connection between economic initiatives and politics.

“If the countries manage to overcome political sensitivities of the recent past and reach political agreement, and the agreements bear fruit in the economic realm, this paves the way for political, social and regional integration with other Maghreb countries,” he said.

“We want to lay the foundations for an efficient, open and transparent civil service,” says Public Sector Minister-Delegate Abdeladim El Guerrouj. [Hassan Benmehdi]

Magharebia, by Hassan Benmehdi in Casablanca and Siham Ali in Rabat (April 26, 2013) — Despite the many measures adopted by the Moroccan government, the civil service is still weighed down by heavy bureaucracy.

The recent launch of a National Strategy to Modernise the Civil Service was prompted by urgent demands by the public, who want to see better-quality public services, according to El Kassi Mohamed, who works for an NGO.

“We want to lay the foundations for an efficient, open and transparent civil service,” said Abdeladim El Guerrouj, the minister-delegate for the public sector and modernisation of the civil service. He spoke to Magharebia on the side-lines of the launch event for the new reform plan, which was unveiled April 5th in Rabat.

During the same event, Minister of State Abdellah Baha underlined that the issues surrounding the Moroccan civil service centre around good governance, in addition to the dangers associated with corruption and bureaucracy.

That view was shared by Interior Minister Mohand Laenser, who underlined that it was important to boost the human resources of the Moroccan civil service because this reform cannot come about without a high level of involvement of public-sector workers.

The implementation of this strategy will be accompanied by the creation of follow-up mechanisms, in particular the “National Conference on the Modernisation of the Civil Service”.

A project management office will also be created to monitor its implementation, and the initiative will be led by a national council headed by the prime minister and an interdepartmental committee chaired by the public sector minister. A number of identified programmes will be launched in tandem, ten of which will be put in place by the end of 2013.

Both members of the public and businesses are demanding high-quality public services.

Adnan Elmalki, an entrepreneur based in Casablanca, told Magharebia that the way the civil service is run is disappointing in most cases: “We have a hard time because of the tax authorities, who don’t always understand the constraints faced by investors.”

“We have to wait for months and months to receive construction permits from the town planning department,” said Abdelkhaleq Adib, a young property developer in Casablanca.

According to Minister-Delegate El Guerrouj, streamlining the management of public affairs in order to deal with the current economic situation and satisfy the expectations of the public and companies is also one of the goals of the new strategy.

Abla Montassir, a student at the University of Casablanca, thinks that there is mistrust between the Moroccan civil service and the public: “There is an urgent need to reconcile Moroccans with their civil service.”

The issue of mistrust is made worse by the malaise within the government. Members of the public are critical of the quarrels between the various factions making up the coalition government.

“If the coalition can’t manage the relationship between the parties that make it up, how can it do a good job of running state affairs?” asked Widad Chekrouni, a 28-year-old teacher.

According to a report published by the central committee of the Party of Progress and Socialism (PPS) on April 14th, the governing coalition is “sadly dysfunctional, because all of its component parts are not adequately performing their duty to present an image of a united government team which will inspire confidence on the part of the Moroccan public and abroad, including among investors”.

The Istiqlal Party, whose Secretary-General Hamid Chabat is criticising the government more and more often with regard to the slow pace of its work, does not appear to welcome the PPS’s call for unity.

“The PPS stands accused by Istiqlal of wanting to hold onto its four ministerial posts, which do not reflect its electoral weight. This kind of accusation is damaging to the coalition,” explained political analyst Jamal Farhane.

Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane gave an assurance during a meeting held on April 13th in Bouznika that the government was “displaying unity”, adding that it was “business as usual, and it won’t be affected by the disruption.”

Oumama Kabli, born to Moroccan mother and raised in Canada (center), celebrates becoming a US citizen during naturalization ceremony April 15 at Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. Kabli, 19, an Army National Guard private, is entitled to become a citizen without normal five-year residency requirement because of her military service. David Friedman/NBC News

** “I am excited that I get to be part of a nation that I’m serving,” said Oumama Kabli, Army National Guard private born to Moroccan mother, raised in Canada, & now a US citizen. “The US is my new home.”**

NBC News, by Bill Briggs, NBC News contributor (April 27, 2013) — A wartime edict to entice immigrants to join the military in exchange for rapid naturalization has created 83,000 new American citizens. But one critic worries the initiative will become permanent — or perhaps even expand — essentially outsourcing more U.S. combat jobs and, he argues, injecting the armed forces with an increased security risk.

Launched via a 2002 executive order by President George W. Bush, the program lets green-card holders who enlist in the U.S. armed services bypass the typical five-year residency rule and apply immediately for citizenship at no fee. More than 10 percent of such naturalization ceremonies have taken place in 28 countries abroad, including 3,412 in Iraq, 2,102 in Japan and 1,134 in South Korea, according to U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services, or USCIS, which administers the process.

Each year, a “limited” number of non-citizens without green cards — here on temporary visas or under refugee or asylum status — are naturalized as well through military service to help bolster branch needs for specific language or medical skills. The numbers of people who take that path are held to the low thousands annually, USCIS reports.

“I feel like I’m living the American dream,” said Oumama Kabli, 19, who was naturalized April 15 during a ceremony at the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C.

Born to a Moroccan mother and raised in Canada, she moved with her mom to Virginia to finish high school and attend college. She’s now an Army National Guard private with plans to enter officer training. (Only U.S. citizens are eligible to become commissioned officers). A Muslim, Kabli believes “it’s an advantage for the Army to have people familiar with the religion or the culture” when troops deploy to predominantly Muslim nations.

‘Citizenship meant everything’

Just as her Moroccan stepfather did in 2004.

“I actually left (Army) basic training, got my naturalization on Friday and was on the plane to Iraq on Saturday morning,” said Youssef Mandour, 31, who worked as a translator, reaching the rank of sergeant. He pulled a second tour of Iraq from 2009 to 2011, working on reconstruction efforts for the State Department.

“Citizenship meant everything. At that point, I was ready to die for my new country,” added Mandour, who arrived from Morocco on a tourist visa at age 17. Today, he owns a defense contracting company in Virginia. “I’m so proud of Oumama. By making her a U.S. citizen it’s going to create that diversity we’re missing in Iraq and Afghanistan. She will be more received by (Muslim) nations than the normal officers from, say, Alabama.”

Source: U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services

Ending the current naturalization-through-service program would require a new White House executive order, said USCIS spokesman Daniel Cosgrove. All military candidates must pass brief civics and English language tests and then undergo background checks for serious criminal histories or possible affiliations with terrorist groups.

“The thing I’m concerned about is not what’s happening now in the military but what could happen if the Pentagon and politicians get too enamored of this idea of non-citizens joining the military,” said Mark Krikorian, executive director of the Center for Immigration Studies, a nonpartisan research organization in Washington, D.C., that advocates tighter immigration policies.

The White House won’t rescind the 11-year program, Krikorian predicts, even after the scheduled 2014 pullout of American troops from Afghanistan, and “it will become a de facto feature of military life.” Further, that immigrant pipeline may be enlarged, he added, “if we open up the officer corps to non-citizens.” In that scenario, he foresees many foreign students joining in order to stay in America permanently.

Nearly 700,000 immigrants take the step to U.S. citizenship each year. Meet some of those who have just become part of that select group: Americans.

But if global events transpire that compel the branches to rapidly expand their ranks, he also can imagine a scenario in which the military perhaps loosens the rules, allowing foreigners abroad to enlist and serve by dangling citizenship as “their compensation.”

“You have the real possibility of soldiering becoming a job that Americans won’t do — just like the Roman empire, not to get too melodramatic about it,” Krikorian said. “That’s not something that’s around the corner. But all bad things can start small.”

An armed force composed of a far higher share of noncitizens also could boost the security risks for all soldiers and intelligence officers, he added.

“Being an immigrant or from a recent-immigrant family just adds an additional layer of concern, as we saw with Maj. Nidal (Hasan), the Fort Hood shooter, or Army veteran Ali Mohamed, one of the leaders of the (1998) African embassy bomb attacks,” Krikorian said. “The vulnerability to blackmail also increases if the target has family members outside the U.S. who can be threatened — drug cartels have used this tactic to compromise Customs or Immigration agents with relatives in Mexico.

‘The U.S. is my new home’

Pentagon spokesman Maj. Erik Brine responded: “We have no restrictions or limits on the recruitment of foreign nationals who are lawfully admitted for permanent residence.”

Today, about 35,000 formerly foreign troops span active-duty, National Guard and reserve units, according to the Department of Defense. (That equates to 1.3 percent of the total force strength). The policy was first used during the Revolutionary War when the federal government allowed noncitizens to enlist and it was revived during the War of 1812, the Civil War and both World Wars.

New U.S. citizens serve the modern branches in a variety of roles, including health care, languages, aviation, logistics and infantry, according to the Pentagon, where spokesman Lt. Cmdr. Nate Christensen said they “will continue to play a vital role in the U.S. Military.”

Oumama Kabli, right, celebrates with mother, Sanaa Mandour, after becoming a US citizen. David Friedman/NBC News

“I am excited that I get to be part of a nation that I’m serving,” said Oumama Kabli. “I’ll always be a Canadian at heart. But the U.S. is my new home, my new adoptive country. It has taken me under its wing. This is where I’m going to live my life.”

“She got to see the process I went through. I’ve told her, ‘I used to be like you but I joined the service,’” added Mandour. “It’s like the iron that shines you up. She wants to help people. I told her that’s the best way that you can help people.”

Orchestra of Fes

**Caravanserai tour across US Midwest concludes as Orchestra of Fes musicians from Morocco come to Grand Rapids, Minnesota**

Grand Rapids Herald-Review, by Nathan Bergstedt (April 27, 2013) — From the beginning of the tour last fall, the musical cultural connection of Caravanserai will be coming to a close this next week as the musicians of the Orchestra of Fes in Morocco come to Grand Rapids to share the world of Andalusian music with audiences in the United States.

The name Caravanserai is taken from the roadside safe havens of the old Middle East where travelers would rest for the night, meeting with fellow travelers so as to share the news of the world, as well as their arts and customs with one another. Considering that this tour is the first taste of American culture for many of the artists involved, the term is fitting since they will be learning about our arts and customs as well as they sharing theirs. In fact, after the members of the orchestra arrive on April 28, they will be treated to a concert of the Glenn Miller Orchestra, which will be performing at the Reif Center.

Andalusian music is at the center of contemporary Moroccan culture, and is entrenched in the history of the land, borrowing from the artistic traditions of North Africa, Spanish Muslims, as well as Jewish. A classical style of music, it subtly tells the history of the country and its people by means of its influences.

“This style of music has probably one of the longest musical and cultural traditions in Morocco,” said Reif Marketing Director Katie Benes.

An interesting aspect of the first group of musicians who came to Grand Rapids from Morocco last fall was the instruments they played. Most Western-culture music lovers aren’t all that familiar with the guembri or the oud, so the performances and workshops by the Majid Bekkas Gnawa Ensemble were very educational in terms of the larger world of music. The Orchestra of Fes, though, makes full use of both violins and cellos, as well as an assortment of less familiar instruments. In addition to the now recognizable oud, the orchestra will be using the taar and the derbouka, which are both small, hand-held drums of different notable shapes.

Throughout the week, starting on Monday, April 29, the orchestra will be conducting a number of workshops and concerts in the area, including shows at both Virginia and Hibbing public libraries. In Grand Rapids, they will be meeting with students at the high school and with the Itasca Symphony Orchestra and Strings Program, and there will be a day-time performance on Friday, May 3, for area students.

The Orchestra of Fes, which is part of the Caravanserai tour created by Arts Midwest, will be at the Reif Center on Saturday, May 4, at 7:30 p.m. Tickets are $15 for adults, $14 for seniors, $8 for students, and are available at the Reif box office, Reed Drug, by phone at 218-327-5780, and online at www.reifcenter.org.

The red cliffs of El Gezira

*”On the road from Agadir, Tara Stevens encounters dramatic beaches, lunar-like landscapes & the majestic Atlas Mountains. Mother Nature seems to have been working overtime…’heart-stoppingly beautiful’.”*

London Telegraph, by Tara Stevens (April 28, 2013) — The light, when we step off the flight from snowy London, is heavenly: a deep, cerulean blue where a cloudless North African sky meets the limitless horizon of the Atlantic. But the man-with-the-sign who’s meant to take us to our car is nowhere to be seen. I ring the help line. “Hello, Mrs Stevens,” says the voice at the end of the telephone, “We’re here in Marrakesh waiting for you.”

This being Morocco it is a “no problem, madam”, moment, and soon Saaïd, the one-man operation of the Agadir branch of Holiday Inn Cars, has appeared with our vehicle. He bids us a pleasant trip, tells us to call if we need anything at all and we’re on our way, heading south on highway N1. Our plan is to loop south along the coast road to Sidi Ifni, a former Spanish outpost overlooking the Atlantic, and then double back to Agadir via the lunar-like landscapes of the Anti-Atlas.

The first part of the journey is a dull, 30-mile stretch of dusty, satellite towns. But as we near Tiznit they give way to shady avenues of plane trees, pink earth and hand-painted signs written in the Tifinagh alphabet of the Amazigh people of this region, which point us towards the terracotta red crenellations of the town.

As Moroccan towns go this is a very laid-back affair, named after a reformed prostitute, Lalla Tiznit, whose repentance was rewarded by God with a freshwater spring, the Source Bleu. These days stagnant and green would be a more accurate description, but the Tiznit that grew up around it became a thriving centre for beaten metal wares, silver jewellery and enamelled cutlery and the Thursday and Friday open-air souk is considered one of the best in Morocco.

We stayed for lunch – a chicken and golden onion tagine – then headed west, cross-country, along valleys as green as any shire, over plump rolling hills and past sprays of forest until suddenly, from high on a ridge, the Atlantic appeared before us, like a frothy blue carpet.

This extraordinary stretch of road runs south parallel to the ocean from the isolated cove of Gourizim all the way to Sidi Ifni (nearly 40 miles away) and save for the odd grand taxi – the battered old Mercedes that here are painted green and yellow to resemble California surf mobiles from the Sixties – there is virtually nothing and no one on it.

Arranged along the cliff tops like a great blue-and-white wedding cake, Sidi Ifni was occupied by the Spanish from 1476 to 1524, and again from 1860. In 1912 it fell to the French protectorate, and was finally given back to Morocco in 1969, but what you see today still has a very colonial feel. With little by way of sights – unless you count the retired Europeans who descend in their motor homes for the winter – this is a place in which to do nothing more than mooch about admiring the Art Deco architecture of the largely disused Spanish consulate, the palace, the lighthouse and the old Hotel Bellevue.

We started and ended our days on the elegant promenade above the beach where we’d have coffee and chocolate croissants in the mornings, and later stroll about under the stars nibbling freshly popped corn from old-fashioned tin drums. In between we’d take long walks on the beach and lazy lunches of grilled fish marinated in turmeric, lemon juice and parsley eaten beneath the colourful parasols of the arcaded market. It’s easy to see how days could drift into weeks, months, even years here.

If the beach at Sidi Ifni is impressive it is nothing compared to those of Mirleft and particularly Legzira, farther north up the coast. Although a Spanish-style development is slowly taking shape on the cliffs above Legzira, down on the beach the original hamlet remains as it always was: a cluster of simple guesthouses and beach bars framed by fire-red cliffs that seem to burst into flame at sunset.

This is the hour to visit, and a couple of beaches along you’ll find a series of magnificent arches, carved by waves rolling over from America. Like great, gaping jaws they leave you feeling quite humbled by the sheer power of it all.

Indeed, Mother Nature seems to have been working overtime in these parts. We drove from Sidi Ifni to Gourizim, then continued north on the coast road to Aglou where the landscape turns to lush, green rolling hills sprinkled with palm trees. Then back through Tiznit and east towards Tafraoute, up, up and away into the Anti-Atlas. The heart-stoppingly beautiful drive reaches heights of over 8,000ft and is punctuated by rammed-earth villages clinging to the sides of ravines and the odd kasbah perched on a stony outcrop.

Tafraoute is comparatively low at about 4,000ft, but it occupies a dazzling spot in the heart of the Ameln Valley. It’s a sweet little town and an excellent base for exploring this wilderness by foot, mountain bike or paraglider.

Known for boulder fields that look as though a giant has been playing marbles across the high desert floor, the chief attractions here are the prehistoric rock paintings at Ukas, contrasted somewhat incongruously by Les Roches Bleues, the 1984 work by the Belgian artist Jean Vérame who took it upon himself to paint several acres of these monumental pebbles in cerulean blue, hot pink and emerald green on the nearby plains of Agard Oudad. The effect is striking and bizarre, and you can easily lose several hours here half expecting that one of them might actually hatch.

The final push west over a great wall of mountain to get back to Agadir is tremendous, the scenery flattening into a Martian-like landscape on the top and springing back into life as you dive back into valleys lush with almond trees, their blossom gusting in the breeze like snowflakes.

This is the road to Aït Baha, where much of the region’s best Argan oil comes from. Revered for its cosmetic and culinary qualities, the oil was traditionally obtained by milling the half-digested pits of the Argan nut gathered from the waste of grazing goats.

These days they are harvested by hand, but we saw several trees filled with little black goats with Mohican manes and came face-to-face with great herds of dromedary camels, their sinewy necks reaching into the upper branches for Argan nuts too. Imagine, just 30 minutes from Agadir, but it felt like a million miles from anywhere.

It was a shock to get back to the traffic-choked city, but even that had its compensations. With the same laid-back character that distinguishes the Moroccan south it has wide, palm-lined avenues, a pretty kasbah located 750ft above the sea, and endless, perfectly kept beaches.

Following a catastrophic earthquake in 1960, which completely destroyed the medina, the city commissioned the Medina de Coco Polizzi – an Italo-Moroccan oddity that’s sure to please lovers of kitsch. Covering four hectares, it showcases various Moroccan architectural styles from the ornate zellige and plaster-covered palaces of Fez to the rammed-earth kasbahs of the Atlas, interspersed with shops hawking fixed-price artisan wares, and cafés and restaurants serving traditional food.

For our last night however, we headed to Agadir’s swanky new marina. Settling into a hip, seafood restaurant with a two-tier platter of grilled lobster before us and a bottle of ice-cold, salmon-hued Moroccan wine, we raised a glass: to spring on Morocco’s Big Sur.

[Continue reading…]