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American singer on ‘Arabs Got Talent’ falls just short – CNN

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American singer Jennifer Grout places in top three in finals of "Arabs Got Talent", plans to return to Morocco to continue to pursue her dreams. CNN, BuzzFeed

American singer Jennifer Grout places in top three in finals of “Arabs Got Talent”, plans to return to Morocco to continue to pursue her dreams. CNN, BuzzFeed

* Watch CNN video report *

* Singer tells BuzzFeed she plans to return to Morocco to continue to pursue her dreams: “As a performer all I really want to do is share this music with people who appreciate it.”

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CNN, by Mohammed Jamjoom (Beruit, Lebanon, December 7, 2013) – American Jennifer Grout fell just short of the top prize in the “Arabs Got Talent” competition after a remarkable run to the finals by a 23-year-old raised in Massachusetts who barely speaks Arabic.

Grout was among the final three contestants left standing on a Beirut stage Saturday night. She was eliminated only just before the end of the televised spectacle on the MBC network, when Syrian dance troup Sima was declared the winner.

Grout won over some shocked viewers in the Middle East earlier in the competition with renditions of classic Arab songs, rather than more Western-sounding music other contestants were performing.

The winning dancers incorporated Western moves in their performance.

Although some journalists in the Middle East had questioned the wisdom of allowing an American in the competition, audience members and even judges on Saturday night’s show praised her for calling attention to traditional songs.

After the ceremony, members of the audience and some contestants approached Grout to take photos and talk with her.

Grout has said she dived into Arabic music three years ago after discovering it online. She previously had studied classical music and opera.

CNN’s Gul Tuysuz contributed reporting from Beirut; Deanna Hackney and David Simpson contributed from Atlanta.

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Moroccans Party in Mint Condition – The JC

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The JC, by Simon Rocker (December 9, 2013) — The mint tea was flying from the bar. Crispy Moroccan doughnuts — sfenj — were being dipped in sugar. And in a corner of the room at the Porat Yosef Moroccan synagogue in Hendon stood an Arabic tent with cushions, lanterns and synthetic palms, set up by Harif, the Association of Jews from the Middle East and North Africa.

Sunday afternoon’s Chanucah party was a special occasion, given that it was organized jointly by the Moroccan consulate. Attendees included consul-general Rachid Agassim — accompanied by his 23-year-old daughter Meriem — and representatives from Moroccan banks and the tourism industry.

“The King of Morocco attaches great importance to the Moroccan diaspora, Jewish and Muslim,” Mr Agassim explained. “The Moroccan Jewish community all over the world has strong links with their country of origin. They come for pilgrimages or family visits.

“We want to share this celebration to show that we in Morocco have no problem with religion. First of all you are Moroccan, then what you want to be, Muslim or Jewish.” Among the guests was Souad Talsi, a Berber Muslim who founded Al-Hasaniya, the Moroccan Women’s Centre in London, 28 years ago. “I am delighted to meet the Moroccan Jewish community,” she said. “We share the same music, language, culture.”

Andalucian-flavored music competed with the buzz of conversation as people tucked into delicacies such as bastilla, filo pastry with a sweet filling.

Mr Agassim said the consulate and other staff were on hand to answer practical questions. “For example, some people have been told that if you have an Israeli passport, you can’t go there. It’s wrong — you can go.”

Although some politicians back home had proposed a bill to criminalize contact with Israel, he was confident “it will not go through. It goes against the principles of tolerance and openness which Morocco is preaching and following.” The diplomat, who in his third year in London, also hopes to organize joint events for the expatriate Muslim and Jewish communities.

Follow The JC on Twitter

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Morocco to Open Cultural Center in Tripoli and Provide Arts Training – Libya Herald

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The Libya Herald reports that a Moroccan cultural center is to open in Tripoli as a part of plans for greater cultural exchange between Libya and Morocco.

The Libya Herald reports that a Moroccan cultural center is to open in Tripoli as a part of plans for greater cultural exchange between Libya and Morocco.

 

 

Libya Herald, by Houda Mzioudet (Tripoli, Libya, December 10, 2013) – A Moroccan cultural center is to open in Tripoli as a part of plans for greater cultural exchange between Libya and the North African kingdom. Specialists from Morocco will also offer training in theatre, film and library curation.

Culture minister Habib Al-Amin meeting the Moroccan ambassador

Culture minister Habib Al-Amin meeting the Moroccan ambassador. Libya Herald

The project was discussed by Habib Al-Amin, the Minister of Culture, and Mohamed Belaich, the Moroccan ambassador to Tripoli, Adel Sunallah, media director for the Ministry of Culture, told the Libya Herald.

“The ministry’s focus will also be on sending Libyan cultural specialists to Morocco to exchange experiences in their field,” Sunallah explained. He added that cooperation will also involve the two countries’ participation in cultural festivals and fairs.

The Moroccan embassy also announced that the Moroccan minister of education will be visiting Libya in December to discuss further cooperation in education.

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Hotel Kasbah du Toukbal: Morocco’s Exotic Getaway – BusinessDestinations.com

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Morocco's Kasbah du Toubkal hotel. Business Destinations

Morocco’s Kasbah du Toubkal hotel. Business Destinations

 

* Tucked away in Morocco’s Imlil Valley, Hotel Kasbah du Toukbal offers travellers an idyllic destination.  Well-kept secret presents ideal location for companies and tourists alike looking for experience they will never forget. *

 

Business Destinations (Marrakech, Morocco, December 9, 2013) — In recent years human resources departments have promoted the importance of developing strong bonds between employees. Now, many getaways are tailored to fulfill this need. However, while many are drab, promising little employee inspiration, some companies are sending their staff to exotic destinations, off the beaten track.

Business Destinations caught up with Chris McHugo, co-founder of Kasbah du Toubkal just outside of Marrakech, about what Morocco and his hotel have to offer companies looking for unique work retreats.

A splendid discovery

Built as a summerhouse in the 1930s, Kasbah du Toubkal was discovered by Chris McHugo and his brother Mike as they journeyed through Morocco in the 1970s. The two had started a travel company that specialized in driving across the country, and it led them to the relatively remote Imlil Valley, where, sitting atop a hill, they discovered what remained of the Kasbah.

Enchanted by the place, and spurred on by reports in 1989 that Morocco was welcoming inward investment, the two decided to buy it – it finally opened in 1995. Such is the splendor of the location, Martin Scorsese chose it as a location for his 1997 film about the Dalai Lama, Kundun, which was nominated for multiple Oscars. Condé Nast Traveller even described it as having, “the best rooftop views in North Africa.”

Roughly 75 minutes away from Marrakech, the Kasbah is only accessible by foot – or mule. This seclusion allows guests to absorb the splendor of the valley as they approach the Kasbah. Once there, they find an idyllic, hilltop retreat bathed in sunlight. Each of the 14 rooms has en suite facilities and it can host up to 28 guests. Many activities at the hotel revolve around the stunning outdoor setting, where trekking trips can be arranged, while at night guests explore stars in the pitch-black sky with the Kasbah’s telescope.

 

Above: Outside dining at Morocco’s Kasbah du Toubkal hotel. Business Destinations

Outside dining at Morocco’s Kasbah du Toubkal hotel. Business Destinations

Business breaks

Destinations are often dictated by time and travel, but the relative closeness of Morocco to key European markets makes it an attractive alternative for work getaways. The Kasbah is ideal for team-building exercises as its unique location in the Imli Valley takes employees out of their comfort zone, creating shared experiences.

McHugo also talks of a method he picked up in his previous role as a consultant to Accenture (then Arthur Andersen). “I saw a technique that they had called ‘House Arrest’. They would take the top teams and say, ‘You can leave here whenever you like, but you’re not going until you’ve solved this problem’.” The Kasbah offers its own remote spot to carry out such exercises. Beyond the main building is a cabin only accessible by foot, which takes four hours to reach. Such a place is ideal for executives that need to problem solve, as it takes them away from distractions and helps focus minds.

Guests lucky enough to discover the Kasbah du Toubkal evidently love the experience. McHugo says one traveller described his brief stay as, “the third best day of his life” (the first being his wedding day, the second the day of his subsequent divorce).

With Morocco so close to Europe – catered for by a growing number of airlines – the appeal of the country for people wanting a relatively close but culturally radical break is obvious. This well-kept secret of a hotel presents the ideal location for companies and tourists alike looking for an experience they will never forget.

For further information visit kasbahdutoubkal.com/corporate

 

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Morocco’s Khadija Ryadi Receives UN’s Prestigious 2013 Human Rights Prize – UN

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Morocco's Khadija Ryadi — former President of the Morocco Association for Human Rights — as one of five individuals to receive the UN's prestigious 2013 Human Rights Prize. UN

Morocco’s Khadija Ryadi — former President of the Morocco Association for Human Rights — is one of five individuals to receive the UN’s prestigious 2013 Human Rights Prize. UN General Assembly

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* Moroccan women’s rights leader and advocate for human rights in general is one of five individuals and one organization to be recognized with the 2013 Human Rights Prize, awarded by the UN every five years *

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United Nations (New York, New York, December 11, 2013) — Marking International Human Rights Day, the United Nations has honored Morocco’s Khadija Ryadi — former President of the Morocco Association for Human Rights — as one of five individuals to receive the UN’s prestigious 2013 Human Rights Prize, which was presented Tuesday at the UN General Assembly’s commemorative meeting marking the 65th anniversary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

The UN Human Rights Prizes, made “in recognition for outstanding achievement in human rights,” were presented by UN Deputy Secretary-General Jan Eliasson, who said that respect for human rights should be a way of life and remarked on the legacy and life of Nelson Mandela.

Mr. Eliasson He praised the accomplishments of the 2013 award recipients and said that “We are in this together and we can only succeed together if we are united in the pursuit of a life of dignity for all.”

Ms. Ryadi has been active as a human rights advocate since 1983, when she enlisted with the Moroccan Association for Human Rights.

She was commended by the UN for being “at the forefront of several human rights causes, including the fight against impunity, full equality between men and women, self-determination and freedom of expression regardless of sexual orientation,” as well as coordinating “a network of 22 human rights non-governmental organizations in Morocco.”

The UN General Assembly established the Human Rights Prize in 1966, and it was awarded for the first time on December 10 1968, the 20th anniversary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, which became known widely as International “Human Rights Day”.

The Prize has been awarded every five years since 1968, and previous winners have included Nelson Mandela, Martin Luther King, Eleanor Roosevelt, Jimmy Carter and Amnesty International.

More than 150 nominations were received by the Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights for the 2013 Human Right Prize, which recognizes the achievements of the recipients, and is also a “clear message to human rights defenders the world over that the international community is grateful for and supports their tireless efforts.”

In addition to Morocco’s Ms. Ryadi, the 2013 Human Rights Prize was awarded to four other individuals and one organization, including:

Biram Dah Abeid, from Mauritania, who has been campaigning against slavery, and is the founder of the NGO “Initiative for the Resurgence of the Abolitionist Movement;”

Hiljmnijeta Apuk, a human rights activist and campaigner from Kosovo for the rights of people with disproportional restricted growth — short stature;

Malala Yousafzai, the student activist from Pakistan, who has become a symbol for young women’s rights around the world; and

Liisa Kauppinen, from Finland and president emeritus of the World Federation of the Deaf, who also advocates for the rights of women and women with disabilities;

The Supreme Court of Justice of Mexico, for its achievements in “promoting human rights through its interpretations and enforcement of Mexico’s Constitution and its obligations under international law.”

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For more information on the UN’s Human Rights Prize and the 2013 award winners, go to:

http://www.un.org/News/Press/docs//2013/ga11467.doc.htm

and https://www.un.org/News/Press/docs/2013/hr5164.doc.htm

The post Morocco’s Khadija Ryadi Receives UN’s Prestigious 2013 Human Rights Prize – UN appeared first on Morocco On The Move.

“Handshake for Peace” Debuts in Morocco at Club World Cup – Inside World Football

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* FIFA, Nobel Peace Center launch Handshake for Peace at Club World Cup Morocco 2013

 – FIFA.com *

Inside World Football (Agadir and Marrakech, Morocco, December 11, 2013) — The opening game of the FIFA World Club Cup today in Morocco will see the first time the official Handshake for Peace has been integrated formally into the match protocol. 

The Handshake for Peace campaign is a joint initiative between FIFA and the Nobel Peace Center in Norway and will feature at all the matches in the Club World Cup.

"Handshake for Peace" debuts at FIFA 2013 Club World Cup matches in Agadir and Marrakech, Morocco,  Dec. 11 to 21.  FIFA.com

“Handshake for Peace” debuts at FIFA 2013 Club World Cup in Agadir & Marrakech, Morocco, Dec. 11 to 21. FIFA.com

FIFA said “the handshake will form an integral part of FIFA events, giving a strong platform for this positive gesture of respect, friendship and fair play.”

“A crucial pillar of FIFA’s mission is to build a better future for all through the power and popularity of football,” said FIFA President Sepp Blatter.

“… by adopting the Handshake for Peace as part of the match protocol of our events, FIFA and the global football community can send a strong message of solidarity and peace to the world.”

The joint initiative was announced by the two organizations at the 2012 FIFA Congress in Budapest. The FIFA Club World Cup in Morocco is the first time it has been formalized at an event.

Nobel Peace Center CEO Bente Erichsen (pictured above far right) said: “Collaboration with FIFA enables us to reach even further with the message of peace.

“Millions of people meet through football – across borders, cultures and languages. Football grounds are among the world’s most important venues for promoting respect, equality and friendship, ideals which have been fundamental to the work of many Nobel Peace Prize laureates.”

 

Agadir, Morocco is hosting matches for FIFA's 2013 Club World Cup.  FIFA.com

Agadir (above) and Marrakech, Morocco are the host venues for the championship matches of FIFA’s 2013 Club World Cup. Photo: Alex Livesey – FIFA/FIFA via Getty Images

 

 

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Women Provide “Spiritual Security” in Morocco – Reuters

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Moroccan women walk past the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca February 24, 2011. Reuters/Pascal Rossignol

Moroccan women walk past the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca February 24, 2011. Reuters/Pascal Rossignol

* To ward off extremism and promote respect and tolerance, Morocco has armed itself with a dramatically different weapon: using the soft power of religious women — the mourchidat — to serve as spiritual guides and help quell violence before it happens. They call it “spiritual security.” *

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Thomson Reuters Foundation, by Samantha Harrington (Rabat, Morocco, December 12, 2013) — Boots on the ground, drones in the skies, and government surveillance of electronic communications have become standard American tools for warding off extremist violence. The Kingdom of Morocco has armed itself with a dramatically different weapon: using the soft power of religious women to quell violence before it happens. They call it “spiritual security.”

After 9/11 shook the world, Moroccan leaders began to think, “It could happen here,” and it did. In 2003, a dozen suicide bombers with ties to al-Qaida blew themselves up in Casablanca, Morocco’s economic center. Now the country knew firsthand the trauma of terrorism.

In response, Moroccan leaders came up with an idea dedicated to foiling religion-based violence by using religion itself. In 2006, under the leadership of the Moroccan Ministry of Islamic Affairs, the mourchidat program was born.

Sanae Elmarouani, 23, already holds a Master’s degree in Islamic studies.  But she’s happy being back in class at Dar al Hadith al Hassania, studying in a prestigious program to prepare her for a vocation in religious service as a spiritual guide.  Her school is a small, ornately decorated building in Morocco’s capital city of Rabat where men train to become imams, Islamic priests, and now ––since 2006 –– women prepare to become their female counterparts, mourchidat.

The setting for this unique school, its high ceilings intricately carved and tiled, is rich in Moroccan tradition.  The goal of the program is similar. When asked how women with religion as their only weapon can possibly expect to beat back the forces of radicalism, Sanae is confident.

“Our religion in general forbids extremism. So the program is like a representation of Islam. The role of mourchidat is to unify the constants of the Moroccan nation.” She cites the guiding principles as honoring the King, who is commander of the faithful, and adherence to the Maliki doctrine and Ashaarit creed, approved by the Islamic Ministry and taught at her school.

The daughter of an imam, Sanae was a teacher in a mosque when she heard of the mourchidat program. She moved quickly to get her application in and felt lucky when she was accepted.

The program is meant to promote women’s rights, giving Moroccan women unprecedented opportunity and authority.  Their work takes them to all parts of the community.

“We work in mosques,” Sanae says.  “We work in prisons, hospitals, and we teach and lead women in all parts of their lives.”

A Selective Program

She and her peers at Dar al Hadith were selected from a large applicant pool. The program is selective. In order to be admitted, women must hold university degrees and be able to recite sections of the Qur’an from memory. Students take a variety of courses, with the main focus on religious training. But in the real world, helping people deal with anger, disappointment and pain, their classes in communication and psychology will be useful. “I’ll use body language first,” Sanae says.

After graduating, Sanae will likely be placed in one of the many mosques that dot Morocco’s cities and countryside. She will use the Islam that she has learned at Dar al Hadith in all aspects of her work, teaching values of respect and tolerance and diffusing extremist thought.  She will lead circle discussions and answer questions about faith but she will not be allowed to lead men in prayer.

In some ways, mourchidat can be compared to Catholic nuns. Both are religious women connected to organized groups. Both start from a place of personal spiritual commitment and apply their advanced studies to the needs of their faith communities.  But since they are women practicing in male-dominated cultures both have limits to their religious leadership. Religious orders of nuns are subject to Church hierarchy and Catholic women are denied access to the priesthood. Mourchidat –– although trained to perform the same duties as imams –– are not allowed to lead men in prayer.

Sanae Elmarouani is one of 50 women in her program. Another 150 participants are men studying to be imams in a parallel program.  Mourchidat take an additional course which focuses on women’s issues like marriage and dress. Using this broad portfolio, the mourchidat bring traditional Islamic values to their duties at the mosque. Program creators see their presence as a way of keeping radical forces at bay and providing “spiritual security.”

“[Spiritual security] simply refers to saving people from the different currents that may end up…throwing them into the hands of the people they’re not supposed to deal with,” says Khalid Saqi, Assistant Director of Dar Al Hadith Al Hassania.

The extremists Saqi speaks of, the ones that people are “not supposed to deal with,” are those whose unbending ideologies morph into social destruction and who bring others along with them. Before the 2003 suicide bombings, religious extremism wasn’t a prominent cause for concern in Morocco. But after Casablanca, the government began to take preventive action.

“We were dealing with a kind of people, a kind of ideology …that in some cases we were not even aware of and then all of a sudden they surged out of nowhere and we were facing a phenomenon that had to be dealt with,” said Saqi.

Farah Cherif D’Ouezzan, Founder and Director of the Center for Cross Cultural Learning in Rabat, says that the program is effective in promoting the “spiritual security” Saqi speaks of and directing ideological power away from fundamentalist sects.

“I think it’s filling that gap that only Wahhabis and Salafis were filling—the gap that people needed someone to explain religion to them –– especially in a country with so much illiteracy and where religion is such an important part of culture. In the past you either had to follow the Wahhabis or Salafis or you were not Islamic,” said Cherif.

Both the Wahhabi and Salafi movements practice strict, uncompromising forms of Islam which have often brought them into conflict with Western values. While these strands of Islam are not always violent, the intolerance they practice can lead in that direction. The 2003 Casablanca suicide bombers were self-procalimed Salafis linked to al-Qaida. Another violent attack, this one in 2011 in Marrakech, “was not connected to any organized terrorist groups,” the US State Department’s 2012 Country Reports on Terror states, but the Moroccan Ministry of the Interior described [the bomber] as a Salafist and an admirer of al-Qa’ida.”

In the official Islam of Morocco, the King is the commander of the faithful and moderation is the style of religious expression. The preferred religious code is the Maliki School of Jurisprudence which is also practiced in many nearby countries with positive relationships with Europe and the US. The Maliki school takes a traditional approach to Islam and is heavily based in the lives and actions of those who lived close to the Prophet Muhammad. The mourchidat are trained to use the official Maliki Islam.

Mourchidat Program Draws Some Criticism

While the mourchidat program is well liked, it does have critics. Skeptics of the counterterrorism aspects of the program point out that the 2011 bombing in Marrakech occurred well after this program had been established. Other critics are women’s rights proponents who claim that the mourchidat program hasn’t fulfilled its promise of improving the lot of women—that it doesn’t go far enough.

Asmae Lamrabet, one of Morocco’s leading female Islamic scholars, voices those concerns. She is the Director of the Center for Women’s Studies in Islam in Rabat which is associated with the Rabita Mohammadia, Morocco’s main organization of Islamic scholars. Lamrabet recognizes that the program has benefits, but has not yet seen real gains being made for women in Moroccan society.  Islamic tradition holds that men and women are equal, she says. But where is the equality in Morocco today?

To make her point, Lamrabet cites a seventh century Islamic scholar— Aisha, the Prophet Muhammad’s youngest wife –– one of the most respected Islamic scholars in the years following Muhammad’s death. Aisha was integral in spreading Islamic thought and unafraid to speak out.  She publicly disagreed with misogynistic teachings of the powerful Calif Omar. Her example endures to this day. Lamrabet says Aisha’s courageous voice is heard as a powerful call to  Islamic feminists across the world.

Lamrabet calls the Islam that mourchidat are taught at Dar Al Hadith Al Hassania “very official, traditional, classical and orthodox, there is no progressive ideal in this kind of speech.” To achieve its goal of expanding women’s rights, Lamrabet wants the program to encourage women to think independently rather than strictly follow government teachings.

“[The mourchidat] are going to transmit all the patriarchal messages –– the same message, the same traditionalist message. Yes, we have women in the mosque now, but it’s not a very big deal. We have to do more.”

While its achievements may not seem enough to Lamrabet and other critics, the program is popular. It provides a way for educated women to contribute to social change, for themselves and the communities they serve. Although only 50 women are admitted each year, applications have increased dramatically. In 2009, according to the US Embassy in Rabat, 800 women applied for the 50 seats.

Program Spreading to Other Arab Countries

Other Arab countries are getting interested as well. Moroccan mourchidat have traveled to the United Arab Emirates to help train Emirati mourchidat, and Saqi has heard reports that an Algerian mourchidat program is in the works.

Even as the model it provides is being replicated elsewhere, the effectiveness of the mourchidat program has not yet been documented.  No research has been conducted to collect data on its real impact.  The US State Department, however, has bought into its anecdotal success, using supportive language in its 2009 Country Report on Terrorism. In that document, Morocco was commended for continuing, “the pioneering experiment…of training and using women as spiritual guides.”

Sanae Elmarouani, looking at the upheaval in the world, particularly in nearby countries of the Middle East, understands the expectations that she and other mourchidat will carry on their shoulders. But she has faith, education, and the role model of her late father, the imam, to guide her. She is optimistic and self-assured.

“I adore my job because it has two gains: one for life and one for an afterlife with God,” she says.

Samantha Harrington spent several months in Morocco on a SIT Study Abroad program and produced this story in association with Round Earth Media, a non-profit organization that mentors the next generation of international journalists.   Khadija Boukharfane contributed reporting.

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Life & Culture: An Insider’s Guide to Marrakesh – The Wall Street Journal

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Terrasse des Épices. Ingrid Pullar for The Wall Street Journal

Terrasse des Épices.  Photos by Ingrid Pullar for The Wall Street Journal

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* “All the clichés are true: The town is overwhelming, colorful, chaotic. But it’s also very comfortable with its bipolar nature; the Gallic and Arab and ancient and modern elements commingle with ease. Marrakesh is eternally worth passing through, quickly or otherwise.” *

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The Wall Street Journal, by Sarah Khan (Marrakech, Morocco, December 12, 2013) Some say the name Marrakesh comes from “murra kish,” which in an Arabic dialect means “pass by quickly”—an old warning about highway robbers and wild animals. Others insist it comes from the Berber phrase “murr akush,” or “the land of God.”

Inside Dar Cherifa café

Inside Dar Cherifa café

This split personality carries through to modern-day Marrakesh. The city is part “Arabian Nights” fantasy, part French elegance; it is a spiritual haven and also a partyers’ paradise, a hippie retreat and a glamorous getaway.

One second you’re reacting to cries of “Balak!” (watch out!), dodging donkeys in the clogged arteries of the walled old city; an hour later, you could be lounging by the enormous marble pool of the Taj Palace Marrakesh in the serene Palmeraie neighborhood.

In the madness of the medina, your senses might register jasmine and orange blossoms one minute, sweat and raw meat the next—or, as is often the case, all at the same time. You’ll emerge from a luxurious hammam treatment only to be blanketed in dust.

For every riad with hand-painted wood ceilings, carved marble archways and latticed lanterns, you’ll find a cafe with stark white walls, chrome accents and contemporary art.

The heart of the 11th-century medina is Djemaa el Fna, the square where belly dancers, snake charmers and trained monkeys have cavorted for centuries, and where food vendors hawk everything from chicken kebabs to fresh snails.

In the Ville Nouvelle, vestiges of French influence persist in broad boulevards and crumbling Art Deco facades. For a more avant-garde scene, Sidi Ghanem, an industrial zone on the fringes of town, has edgy design emporiums and trendy restaurants.

All the clichés are true: The town is overwhelming, colorful, chaotic. But it’s also very comfortable with its bipolar nature; the Gallic and Arab and ancient and modern elements commingle with ease.

Marrakesh is eternally worth passing through, quickly or otherwise.

 

Djemaa el Fna features an outdoor mobile food court.

Djemaa el Fna features an outdoor mobile food court.

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Journal Concierge: The best hotels, restaurants, neighborhoods and shops according to designer Paloma Picasso, socialite Christine Alaoui, photographer Hassan Hajjaj and chef Moha Fedal.

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Christine Alaoui

Christine Alaoui

Jardin Majorelle

Jardin Majorelle

The Socialite: Christine Alaoui

Hostess who entertained the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and decorator Bill Willis in her Marrakesh home

Artistic Oasis // Berber Museum, Jardin Majorelle. It is in the workshop of painter Jacques Majorelle, designed by Paul Sinoir, the French architect from the ’30s. I used to accompany my friend Yves Saint Laurent around the surrounding gardens at dawn, when they were closed to the public. His ashes were scattered in these gardens he loved and owned. Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Guéliz, jardinmajorelle.com

Beatrice Paul Ingrid Pullar for The Wall Street Journal

Beatrice Paul

Best Boutique // Beatrice Paul at La Mamounia Hotel Beatrice worked with famous designers such as Claude Montana, and combines classical Moroccan embroidered fabrics with a Parisian touch. Avenue Bab Jdid, Medina, mamounia.com

Local Fare // Dar Yacout. My favorite restaurant. Mohamed Zkhiri and his brother Abdellatif are the best hosts and have received the whole world, from heads of states to kings and famous stars. I love to eat the tagine makkfoul. It is made with lots of tomatoes, onions and cinnamon on top of the meat and cooked for hours. 79 Rue Sidi Ahmed Soussi, Bab Doukkala, Medina, yacout.ma

Luxe Lodging // Royal Mansour. There are many beautiful hotels in Marrakesh, but this is the most incredible. The craftsmanship of the local artisans is just unreal. My daughter, photographer Leila Alaoui, launched the first exhibit there, a series of portraits of famous artists of Morocco. Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, Medina, royalmansour.com

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Hassan Hajjaj

Hassan Hajjaj

The Photographer: Hassan Hajjaj

Moroccan artist, fashion and housewares designer, and owner of gallery-boutique-teahouse Riad Yima

Djemaa el Fna

Djemaa el Fna

Standout Street Food // Djemaa el Fna Most locals have favorite stands at the outdoor mobile food court of this ancient square. I like the orange juice at #13 and the fish ‘n’ chips at #14—it’s a family that has been doing it for a long time. They also make a great aubergine paste.

Chic Shop // 33 Rue Majorelle. This boutique opposite Jardin Majorelle is a little bit like Colette in Paris. They sell clothing, accessories and home décor by dozens of Moroccan designers. 33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Guéliz, 33ruemajorelle.com

Mountain Escape // Kasbah Bab Ourika. A hotel on top of a mountain outside the city. It is heaven on earth. If you want fresh food and fresh air, to relax and think, I highly recommend it. Ourika Valley Atlas Mountains, kasbahbabourika.com

Royal Residence // Bahia Palace. This beautiful 19th-century palace (now a historic site) is a real riad, where viziers lived. When you go there it’s like, wow. You feel how Marrakesh was at one point. 5 Derb el Arsa, Riad Zitoun El Jdid, Medina

Refueling Stop // Afriquia. At this gas-station chain there are simple cafes that serve traditional Moroccan dishes. I like the tagine kefta. Multiple locations, www.afriquia.ma

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Paloma Picasso

Paloma Picasso

Terrasse des Épices

Terrasse des Épices

The Designer: Paloma Picasso

Creator of jewelry for Tiffany, including a line inspired by Marrakesh, where she lives part-time

Genie’s Boutique // Mustapha Blaoui. Going into this interiors shop is like going into Aladdin’s cave. If there’s anything you’d like that he doesn’t have, you just have to ask for it—somehow in an hour or so it will appear before your eyes. 142-144 Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, Medina, 212-5-24-38-52-40

Custom Couture // Mohammed Rida Ben Zouine. At this tailor’s atelier, I can design what I want and get it made—Moroccan-looking dresses with a lot of embroidery or very simple, tailored things. 142 Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, Medina, 212-6-70-46-57-61

Saadian Tombs

Saadian Tombs

Global Retreat // Riad Madani. Some friends own this hotel, which has one of the largest riad gardens in the medina. They’ve done the house up as though it were their own. One room is Chinese. There’s also a Picasso room with prints of my father’s work. 64 Derb Moulay Abdelkader, Medina, riad-madani.com

Serene Sanctuary // Saadian Tombs. I really like the striking architecture here, at the final resting place for members of the Saadi dynasty [dating to the late 16th century]. It’s so simple and uncluttered, yet very decorative, very bold. Rue de La Kasbah, Medina

Lunch With a View // Terrasse des Épices. I go here if I’m doing errands in the medina. It’s on top of a building, so you have a beautiful view: In winter you can see the Atlas Mountains and the snow. 15 Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, Medina, terrassedesepices.com

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Moha Fedal

Moha Fedal

The Chef: Moha Fedal

Owner of Dar Moha restaurant, host of the television show “Maghreb Al Adwak” (“Moroccan Taste”)

Country Retreat // Le Bled. A moment of real pleasure is when I return to this farm, the vegetable garden for my restaurant. It’s not far from the city, at the beginning of the road to the Ourika Valley, and there is a small hotel on the property. Douar Coucou Oasis Hassan II – Taseltant, Guéliz, lebledmarrakech.com

The mellah market sells fruits, vegetables, meat and fish.

The mellah market sells fruits, vegetables, meat and fish.

Delightful District // The mellah. The historic Jewish neighborhood in the medina has an antiques market, and the market Al Khair has fruits and vegetables, meat and fish. Everything is authentic; it’s a feast for the tastes.

Gem of a Shrine // Mosque of El-Mansour. In the casbah of Marrakesh is this 12th-century building located near Bab Agnaou. It was nicknamed “mosque with the golden apples”—according to legend, the lanterns were made from the gold jewelry of the wife of 12th-century ruler Yacoub el-Mansour. Rue de la Kasbah, Medina

Late-Night Hotspot // Le Comptoir Darna. This restaurant and club attracts artists, businessmen, international celebrities and world travelers. After hours and hours of work, I love to have a break here, where the traditional and the modern are combined. There are shows with musicians and belly dancers in the later hours. Avenue Echouhada, Hivernage, comptoirmarrakech.com

Green Space // Agdal Gardens. This is the most beautiful place in Marrakesh, a park of about 1,000 acres just south of the medina. It’s a real haven.

Riad Madani hotel features a Picasso room with prints of the artist's work.

Riad Madani hotel features a Picasso room with prints of the artist’s work.

[Continue Reading…]

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Culture, cinema: Morocco’s Booming Film Industry – Euronews (w/VIDEO)

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* Click to watch Euronews video report *

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Euronews (December 13, 2013) — Morocco’s film industry is booming. A public funding mechanism modeled on the French system has helped boost film-making in the North African country in the past decade. And the Tangier National Film Awards along with the Marrakech Film Festival provide emerging filmmakers with a stepping stone.

“As far as Moroccan cinema is concerned, I am very confident, I think there is great energy in Moroccan cinema today, an energy which is spreading, we are lucky to live in a country which is renowned for its creative freedom, an exception in the Arab world,” says film director Narjiss Nejar.

“Moroccan cinema has experienced real growth in recent years, both production-wise and quality-wise. We have enjoyed recognition, especially at the International Film Festival in Marrakech. We need a Moroccan artist to win the festival’s Golden Star,” says Moroccan actor Driss Roukh.

With its exotic landscapes, Morocco has long been a popular destination for foreign filmmakers. The Moroccan government is welcoming towards foreign movie producers, and shooting costs are relatively low.

But home-grown cinema is a relatively new phenomenon. The first Moroccan movie was made in 1958.

“Moroccan cinema is growing fast, we now have a real cinema industry. In the past, nobody had heard about Moroccan cinema but now the industry is making a name for itself on the global market,” says Moroccan actress Naima Ilyas.

Morocco is the third biggest producer of films in Africa after Egypt and South Africa.

“I’m really pleased with the quality of Moroccan cinema because its reputation is growing fast. We now produce more than 20 films a year, that’s great, it’s extraordinary compared to what we used to produce,” says Moroccan actor and director Said Naciri.

Morocco’s film industry is heavily reliant on the government. Moroccan film-maker Kamal Kamal says that in order to remain independent the cinema industry needs to develop other sources of funding.

“It’s a question of funding. For every Moroccan film that’s made, France makes 20, and the US makes one hundred. Moroccan cinema is also an industry. Of course, there’s the creative part, but it’s an industry, and an industry requires funding to survive,” says Kamal Kamal.

But Morocco’s growing film production has not helped save its cinema theatres – many of which have closed down. Out of 350 nationwide, only 50 are still open.

“We produce 20 films a year, but cinema theatres are closing down, there is a limited audience and that’s the problem. But production is growing, and so is the quality of our films, the cinema industry is evolving, both technically and with regards to content,” says film director Latif Lehlou.

Today, Moroccan film-makers face a dilemma, forced to chose between pleasing an audience that just wants to be entertained, and a desire to tackle Moroccan society’s more serious issues. As cinemas continue to shut down, production companies are having to turn to national television to sell their films.

“Morocco’s film festivals are a chance for artists and actors in the cinema industry to meet and talks about their work and projects and the reality of a booming film production,” says euronews’ correspondent in Marrakech Kawtar Wakil.

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Morocco Should Be the Model – Michael Rubin, Commentary Magazine

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Contentions

“Morocco Should Be the Model”

Michael Rubin, resident scholar, American Enterprise Institute

Michael Rubin, resident scholar, American Enterprise Institute

Michael Rubin
Commentary Magazine
December 15, 2013

It has long been fashionable to describe Turkey as a model for the Middle East, if not the Islamic world. I’ve written on these pages many times how this notion is outdated as Turkey’s government has moved to undo the separation between mosque and state, and how the prime minister himself has acknowledged his goal to be to raise a religious generation.

American reliance on Turkey during and after the Arab Spring has been nothing short of disastrous. In Egypt, Libya, and elsewhere, Turkey has moved to privilege the Muslim Brotherhood and other Islamist groups over relative moderates. Of greater concern to U.S. national and regional security, Turkey has become the chief transit center for religious radicals and al-Qaeda sympathizers entering Syria. Rather than stop Libyans, Mauritanians, Chechens, Uighurs, and Saudis who disembark Turkish Air flights in Gaziantep and ask them why their sudden interest in a location they previously avoided, Turkish police simply demand $40 and wave the jihadists on across the border.

The contrast with Morocco could not be sharper. While Jews are fleeing Turkey, and anti-Semitism appears rife at senior ranks of the Turkish government, Jews are returning to Morocco, if only as tourists. According to Jeune Afrique, 45,000 Israelis visited Morocco in the past year. Between 1993 and 1995, Morocco’s minister of tourism was Jewish. The Moroccan constitution of 2011 enshrines not only the Kingdom’s Arab and Berber identity, but also its “Hebraic heritage.” Such constitutional prerogatives and monarchy’s moderation dampen the populism of some parties which in the last month, for example, proposed a bill banning contacts with Israelis. That such a hateful bill stands no chance at passage underscores the checks and balances inherent in the system. In Turkey, by contrast, the prime minister himself led a campaign to boycott Israel and Israelis.

Morocco has consciously embraced religious moderation. Imams go through rigorous training and must continually renew their licenses. Those who promote intolerance or religious hatred quickly find themselves out of a job. While freedoms plunge throughout the region, Moroccans enjoy an increasingly free and vibrant press and readily engage in public demonstrations. During a trip to Rabat this past week, I saw separate demonstrations relating to unemployment and demands for the court to dismiss charges against a journalist who linked to a website hosting an al-Qaeda call for violent jihad. Moroccan police kept their distance from the demonstrators, and directed their attention instead to directing traffic around the demonstrators. Contrast that with Turkey, where the government’s response to a protest against the paving over of a park was to fire tens of thousands of tear gas canisters, beat scores of protestors, and kill at least four.

While Turkey embraces Hamas, Morocco broke diplomatic relations with Iran over that country’s attempts to promote radical religious interpretation. And rather than support religious extremists, Morocco has lent its expertise to promote constitutional checks and balances and women’s rights in countries like Tunisia, Libya, and Yemen. While the Turkish ambassador to Chad openly endorsed al-Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb when fighting erupted in Mali, Morocco continues to help Mali reconstruct itself and defeat all remnants of al-Qaeda.

Morocco increasingly also provides a model for justice. Just as in Turkey, serious human-rights abuses marked the 1970s, 1980s, and perhaps even 1990s in Morocco. In recent years, though, the two countries have again diverged. Morocco implemented a new, quite progressive constitution in 2011. Rather than sweep past abuses under the rug, the Moroccan state sponsored a truth and reconciliation committee in which citizens across the spectrum embraced, giving the Kingdom a chance at a fresh start. Not so in Turkey. When Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan took over in 2003, he drew a sharp distinction between past and future, but used his power not to reconcile but rather to seek revenge against first real and perceived enemies, and increasingly against anyone who might develop an independent political base. While Moroccan press freedom and political space has increased over the years, Turkish press freedom has retracted to the point that Turkey now rests behind even Russia in watchdog rankings.

Neither Morocco nor Turkey is perfect, but trajectory is important. Morocco provides a path toward reconciliation and moderation, while Turkey’s political leadership has increasingly turned that country into a beacon for populism and hate. Generations of diplomats have become accustomed to thinking of Turkey as a partner and a model for the region. But autopilot should never be a substitute for wisdom. Increasingly, it is apparent that a moderate, more democratic future for the Middle East lies not in the Turkish model but rather the Moroccan one.

Michael Rubin@mrubin1971

Michael Rubin is a resident scholar at the American Enterprise Institute; senior lecturer at the Naval Postgraduate School’s Center for Civil-Military Relations; and a senior editor of the Middle East Quarterly.

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Book Fair in Riyadh to Mark World Arabic Language Day – Arab News

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Celebrating “World Arabic Language Day” on Dec. 18 is part of a new UN initiative launched following a proposal made by Saudi Arabia and Morocco. Arab News

Celebrating “World Arabic Language Day” on Dec. 18 is part of a new UN initiative launched following a proposal made by Saudi Arabia and Morocco. Arab News

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* Marking December 18 as “World Arabic Language Day” is part of a new UN initiative launched following a proposal made by Saudi Arabia and Morocco *

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Arab News, Ghazanfar Ali Khan (Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, December 16, 2013) — Saudi Arabia will celebrate “World Arabic Language Day” on Dec. 18 as part of a new UN initiative, which was launched following a proposal made by Saudi Arabia and Morocco. The celebration seeks to promote multilingualism and cultural diversity on a global level, as well as celebrate the Arabic language’s role and contributions to the promotion and preservation of human civilization and culture.

This was disclosed by Abdullah Al-Jasser, deputy minister of culture and information, here on Sunday. Al-Jasser said that a book fair would be inaugurated on Wednesday to mark the occasion. The event, he said, commemorates Dec. 18, 1973, when the UN General Assembly designated Arabic as the sixth official language of the UN.

Al-Jasser said Arabic is the language of 22 member states of UNESCO, besides being one of the most commonly used languages that is spoken by more than 425 million people today, most of whom live in the Middle East and North Africa. The book fair will be inaugurated by Information and Culture Minister Abdulaziz Khoja, said the deputy minister.

He said the ministry will honor the late Mohammed Al-Rasheed, education minister, for his contributions to the promotion of the Arabic language and courses in Saudi Arabia. The ministry would also hold a seminar on “Saudi media and the Arabic language.”

Adel Al-Sharif, an Arabic scholar who teaches foreign students in the Kingdom, said that “Arabic is the richest language, spoken currently in more than 22 countries … and used by the world’s 1.5 billion Muslims.”

“Nearly 40 years later after the UN recognized Arabic, we are celebrating the power of the Arabic language that promotes shared values, peace and brotherhood,” he added.

Arabic became an UN official working language by virtue of a UN General Assembly resolution. The UN Department of Public Information announced the decision to celebrate an international day for each of the six official languages of the UN in an effort to support and strengthen linguistic and cultural diversity within the UN system.

French Day is celebrated on Mar. 20, while English Day and Russian Day are observed on April 23 and June 6 respectively. Nov. 13 is the UN day for Chinese and Oct. 12 for Spanish.

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De-Radicalization the Right Way – Michael Rubin, Commentary Magazine

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Contentions

“De-Radicalization the Right Way”

Michael Rubin, resident scholar, American Enterprise Institute

Michael Rubin, resident scholar, American Enterprise Institute

Michael Rubin
Commentary Magazine
December 17, 2013

The real fight within the Islamic world remains between the forces of moderation and more extreme elements who justify terrorism in theology. A host of contractors and NGOs have responded by creating a de-radicalization industry which, alas, has too often become the contemporary equivalent of snake oil salesmen from centuries past. The State Department and its European counterparts are willing to give cash to anyone who says the right thing, and promises a magic formula to transform religious radicals into non-violent moderates. Countries like Saudi Arabia learn they can bypass real accountability for their funding of hate if they design a program, never mind its high recidivism rate shows it to be little more than a diplomatic scam. Al-Qaeda and art therapy seldom mix.

The real victory of moderation over radicalism will be internal to Islam, and will likely involve women. I have written here before that young Pakistani schoolgirl Malala Yousafzai did more to delegitimize the Taliban than 15 years of State Department and Pakistani government programs. And I have also written more recently about how Morocco has in many ways become a model for moderation throughout the Middle East. Nowhere is that more true than when it comes to promoting religious moderation and inclusive and tolerant interpretations and practices within Islam. A case in point is the Mourchidat program in Morocco, in which women train in Islamic theology alongside their male counterparts. The men and women are treated as equals and master the exact same theological curriculum, although women will not be able to lead public prayer. Both men and women take classes in psychology and communications to better perform their functions as community counselors and confidants.

A recent report in Reuters details how the program provides a moderate alternative by inserting those who can explain religion to both men and women, rather than simply requiring rote memorization and practice:

Farah Cherif D’Ouezzan, Founder and Director of the Center for Cross Cultural Learning in Rabat, says that the program is effective in promoting the “spiritual security” Saqi speaks of and directing ideological power away from fundamentalist sects. “I think it’s filling that gap that only Wahhabis and Salafis were filling-the gap that people needed someone to explain religion to them – especially in a country with so much illiteracy and where religion is such an important part of culture. In the past you either had to follow the Wahhabis or Salafis or you were not Islamic,” said Cherif. Both the Wahhabi and Salafi movements practice strict, uncompromising forms of Islam which have often brought them into conflict with Western values.

The whole article is worth reading.

Having American taxpayers throw money at the problem of radicalization will achieve little, nor will working through organizations like the Council on American Islamic Relations (CAIR) or the Islamic Society of North America (ISNA), which often do more to obfuscate the problem of radicalism rather than resolve it. Sometimes it’s important to sit back and observe the best practices which actually breed long-term success. For this, Morocco’s Mourchidat program seems to be the clear model for the region to replicate.

Michael Rubin | @mrubin1971

Michael Rubin is a resident scholar at the American Enterprise Institute; senior lecturer at the Naval Postgraduate School’s Center for Civil-Military Relations; and a senior editor of the Middle East Quarterly.

 

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Morocco’s High Council of Ulema Expands Community Role – Magharebia

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To counter extremist preaching, Moroccan religious teachers must be more accessible, High Council of Ulemas chief Mohamed Yessef said. [AFP/Ourak]

To counter extremist preaching, Moroccan religious teachers must be more accessible, High Council of Ulemas chief Mohamed Yessef said. AFP/Ourak

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* “One of the important aspects is immunizing mosques and maintaining the sacredness of their role in propagating a tolerant and moderate Islam, far removed from the fanatical ideology that undermines religions and society.”

– Chief of Morocco’s High Council of Ulema, Mohamed Yessef *

 

Magharebia, by Siham Ali (Rabat, Morocco, December 18, 2013)The High Council of Ulema is seeking to boost its role as a provider of guidance and training to the public in Morocco.  To achieve this, it is reaching out at local levels.

During its seventeenth session held in Fez on Sunday, December 15th, the council decided that clerics from local charters should become more accessible to schools and civil society organizations.

Strengthening the role of mosques was another central issue. The aim is to maintain the role that these religious institutions play in educating and training believers.

High Council of Ulema chief Mohamed Yessef highlighted the role played by mosques in educating and training people. He said that reform of the religious sphere is a key aspect of any attempt to develop society and emancipate people.

“One of the important aspects is immunizing mosques and maintaining the sacredness of their role in propagating a tolerant and moderate Islam, far removed from the fanatical ideology that undermines religions and society,” he said.

To achieve the desired goals, high hopes are being placed in the 200 young imams who have graduated from the Imam Training Institute.

Efforts to boost religious guidance must be aimed at both citizens in Morocco and Moroccans living overseas, especially in Europe. For this reason, the Moroccan Council of Ulema welcomed the role played by its European counterpart.

Khalid Hajji, the secretary-general of the Council of Moroccan Ulema in Europe, noted that particular attention was being paid to training for imams and preachers so that they could do their job within a framework adapted to the European context.

For her part, sociologist Samira Kassimi said the council should become more accessible to young people, in particular by answering their questions and guiding them properly, to thereby prevent them from falling prey to the fundamentalists who are ready to issue extremist edicts at any time.  She added it was time to make official fatwas accessible through the mass media and regional and local meetings.

Members of the public are eager to see the Council of Ulema open up to its social environment. Jamila Matriki, a teacher, said that the Council’s decision to become accessible to schools and civil society was long awaited because this will enable it to do community-level work based on scientific and objective opinions far removed from all extremism and fanaticism.

“A lot of people, especially young people, go to fanatics for opinions on religious matters,” she noted.  ”This means they can be led astray by extremists because of the vacuum in the provision of religious guidance. The institution of the ulema must play its role in this regard,” she said. That view was shared by Omar Jahouri, a student, who said that the gap must be filled.

“It is time to focus on schools and universities in order to raise the awareness of children and young people. But we must steer clear of official discourse and use language that brings us closer to young people’s concerns,” he added.

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Morocco: A Feast for the Senses – Jakarta Globe

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Hassan II Mosque in Morocco. (Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho)

Hassan II Mosque in Morocco. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

The Jakarta Globe, by Hario Priambodho (December 20, 2013) — Morocco is the complete package in an exotic setting, plain and simple. Morocco caught me rather off guard that it actually consists of even more layers than I initially imagined. Far from a one-trick pony, this North African country deserves to be visited more than once.

A journey to Morocco would typically start out in Casablanca, Morocco’s largest city. First and foremost, I would advise anyone who visits Casablanca to leave any preconceptions that Hollywood might have instilled on you and start fresh. Forget Bogart’s distinctive voice, forget the romanticized atmosphere of Casablanca in the 40s. Casablanca is a whole different beast from what you would imagine from the fiction it owes its reputation to.

To name a few things to do in Casablanca, there’s the Hassan II Mosque which by all means was spectacular. Casablanca also had a couple of great seafood restaurants by its docks. And for those who still can’t shrug off the fact that this city is in reality a very different city than in Bogart’s world, there’s the aptly named Rick’s Café, in which the owner of the café designed the interior to make it look exactly like the infamous bar in the movie Casablanca.

After seeing all that, then move on to the next destination, whether it be Fes, Rabbat, Tangiers or Marrakesh.

Here we have Morocco’s prized jewel: Marrakesh, the city that have inspired thousands to flock to this pulsating city. Once a capital of the Moroccan Sultanate, Marrakesh is embellished by grand palaces, a lively bazaar within its old city, and flanked by the Atlas Mountains with some of the highest peaks in all of Africa.

Look at the pictures on the web, read up on the atmosphere of the medina, and you’ll probably get what you would expect the minute you set foot inside its walled city.

 

The city of Marrakesh, Morocco’s prized jewel. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

The city of Marrakesh, Morocco’s prized jewel. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

 

Marrakesh is sprawling, but its old medina is like a time capsule. Though not as old as Fes’ old city, Marrakesh can still hold its own and give visitors that eerie feeling of being transported back into time. You’ve probably had this imagination of how a medieval Moorish culture would look and feel, and Marrakesh will take you there seamlessly.

The old medina is dazzling and occasionally disorienting. There is so much going on within its narrow cobbled streets. It’s like a labyrinth in which if you’re not careful you’ll end up on the wrong end of the city. But that’s part of the joy in exploring Marrakesh. You get the undiluted sensation of actually being in the middle of an adventure through exploration of the unknown.

With luck or perhaps help of local people, you’ll end up in Marrakesh’s most famous site, the Jemaa el-Fna, the main square of Marrakesh, also probably the most photographed landmark in the city. From above, the sight of the square is mesmerizing. At ground level, the experience is very vibrant and at times overwhelming.

The square is filled with locals and tourists alike, many navigating the numerous food stalls that set up shop after the sun goes down. From seafood to grilled meat to delicious cooked goat’s head, the sight and aromas are like a siren’s call, one that is very hard to resist.

You could explore Marrakesh for days and not get bored, but that’s unfair because of other places nearby that are also worth your time. Take, for example, the old fortified coastal city of Essaouira. This particular city slipped under my radar as I was planning the trip, and sneaked up into my attention only when I got to Casablanca.

Essaouira is unusually known for its musical scene and a reputation with hippies – yes, I saw actual real life breathing hippies. It gained this reputation because back in the 60s when it was all love and peace, Jimi Hendrix visited the town and they now even have a Hendrix Café which sort of acts as a shrine to the rock legend.

Hippies aside, Essaouira is a city doused in blue and white, in contrast to Marrakesh’s predominant pinkish-brown. The city was once an important Portuguese trading port and remnants of the old fortification still remain around the city. Indicative of its history, there are more European-styled buildings than say in Marrakesh.

 

Essaouira is a city doused in blue and white. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

Essaouira is a city doused in blue and white. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

 

A few tips for those who are interested in visiting Morocco:

Do visit Casablanca and take in the sight and food, but I advise not to overstay. One or two full days in Casablanca would be enough.

Although Marrakesh is the centerpiece of Morocco, do take time to explore other parts of Morocco. Do visit Fes, a city north of Casablanca that’s probably the Sufi capital of the world and one of the oldest settlements in the country with an old medina that’s more “authentic” than Marrakesh’s.

Do visit Volubilis to see a fine example of an excavated Roman city in North Africa.

Do visit Imlil, a city in the High Atlas Mountains that can be visited through a full day trip from Marrakesh.

Visit Ouarzazate, Morocco’s Hollywood and gateway to the Sahara Desert.

Marrakesh’s old medina is best experienced up close, therefore it would be ideal if you pick one of the many beautiful Riads within the medina to stay in.

 

Morocco has some of the best grilled meat in the world. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

Morocco has some of the best grilled meat in the world. Photo courtesy of Hario Priambodho

 

By all means try one of the food stalls in the square in Marrakesh. But if you’re looking for something more “local,” there are numerous restaurants set up like butcher shops in the streets that lead out of Jemaa el-Fna.

These places had some of the best grilled meat I have tasted anywhere in the world. Look for the butcher-like glass displays on the side of the road and gauge the ratio of tourists and locals inside. If there are more locals, then you’ve found your spot and gateway to meat heaven.

Originally published in SUB-Cult, an online magazine bringing you the newest information in lifestyle, music, films, books, art and designs.

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How Moroccan Actress Zineb Oukach Won Her Role in ‘Wolf of Wall Street’– Huffington Post

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Moroccan-born actress Zineb Oukach, who stars in Martin Scorsese's newly released film, "The Wolf on Wall Street."  Huffington Post

Moroccan actress Zineb Oukach stars in Martin Scorsese’s new film ‘The Wolf on Wall Street.’ Huffington Post

 

* Zineb Oukach, a Moroccan-born beauty, is set to stand out amongst a male driven cast which includes Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah Hill, Jean Dujardin, Rob Reiner, Kyle Chandler and Matthew McConaughey in the highly anticipated Martin Scorsese film “The Wolf of Wall Street” in theaters Christmas Day. Visit Zineb’s website. *

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Huffington Post, Ilana Rapp (December 23, 2013) — Zineb is a goal-driven actress who is currently producing and starring in a film being shot in Morocco called “I Am Morocco.” Zineb is most intrigued by complicated and deep roles that have a sincere or comedic tonality. In the future, she hopes to collaborate with Steven Spielberg, JJ Abrams, Woody Allen and Quentin Tarantino.

It was a pleasure to have the opportunity to do this interview with Zineb. She’s very business oriented and also, at the same time, has the most delicious personality and a great smile!

You were raised in Morocco and in 2005 moved to France. Why did you move?

I moved to Paris to pursue my dream of being an actress and model. Paris is the “City of Lights,” the city where dreams are made a reality, so it was a wonderful place to start my career.

Tell us about your audition for Martin Scorsese’s “The Wolf of Wall Street”.

The day I first auditioned, I had about five other auditions lined up for different roles. My manager and I made the conscious decision to solely focus on my audition for “The Wolf of Wall Street” because having the chance to audition for a Martin Scorsese film is an opportunity of a lifetime. I did my research and preparation, but also wanted to make sure I looked the part as well, so I went out and found a great outfit that truly embodied the character that I was going out for. I auditioned first with the casting director, and then a couple of days later got a call back saying that Marty (Martin Scorsese) really loved my audition but wanted to see my improvisational skills. I went back in for a second audition and within a couple of days got a call back saying I booked the role of the Hostess of the Naomi.

“The Wolf of Wall Street” was shot in NYC. How long were you in NYC doing the shoot and where did you stay?

I actually live in NYC so it was great being part of a film where my city is the backdrop. I shot half of my scenes in NYC and the other half in Palm Beach, Florida (which in the film is Italy).

Growing up in Morocco, have you noticed any cultural differences between you and other parts of the world?

Yes, there are definitely culture differences, but that’s a positive thing. I embrace those difference and think it’s important that everyone has their own story and background.

You play the mysterious character Stella in Nicktoons show “Alien Dawn.” What’s it like working on a show geared toward younger people vs. a production such as the film “Rendition”?

Working on “Alien Dawn” is so much fun and completely different than say doing “Rendition” which was a very serious role. I really like working on “Alien Dawn” because there’s more freedom for creativity on set, which I love. Also, when I play Stella, it’s like going back to childhood and playing with my friends.

You’re current project is producing and starring in the film “I Am Morocco.” What made you want to get into producing films?

It was actually a very natural process. I have been attached to the film and its creative process from the start. I was asked if it was something I’d ever consider since I was already so hands on with the film and I said yes. Someone recently said to me, “You know this is exactly what Sandra Bullock was doing when she was your age.” with regards to taking an active role in the projects she attached herself to. After hearing that, I thought, “I’m on the right path.”

What are your workout, eating routines and beauty secrets? What products do you use?

I do enjoy working out and think it’s very important for everyone to be active in one way or another. For me, I do a number of different things including ballet, bar method, spinning class and I have a trainer who kicks my butt. I like to mix it up and not stick with the same workout regime every day. I make sure to workout at least four days a week for an hour long.

In general though, I try to maintain happiness, go to sleep early, stay active, and for the beauty part, I love putting Moroccan Oil all over my body for a nice glow.

Are there any days when you do NOT feel sexy? What makes you feel good, physically, emotionally and spiritually?

There are definitely days that I do not feel sexy. To change that though, I love getting massages, talking to my friends, walking the streets of New York, having a bath; doing the little things that make me feel good.

When you’re not working, what is your favorite thing to do?

Cooking and traveling are two of my biggest passions. I love to eat!!

Anything else you’d like to say?

My best advice to anyone would be to follow your instinct and pursue your dreams.

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Photo Project Breaks Barriers in Morocco – New York Times

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A photograph by Jim Goldberg, one of the photographers featured in the Marrakesh project. Jim Goldberg/Magnum Photo

A photograph by Jim Goldberg, one of the photographers featured in the Marrakesh project. Jim Goldberg/Magnum Photo

 

The New York Times, by Nicolai Hartvig (Marrakesh, Morocco, January 1, 2014) — On a recent morning here at the new Marrakesh Museum of Photography and Visual Art, several women in colorful niqabs strode up to see images of themselves on a wall of 78 portraits taken by the American photographer Susan Meiselas. Some laughed and took pictures of each other with the art. Others hugged the photographer, who was present. And one woman, upon finding her sister’s portrait, protested that the picture should be removed.

The portraits are part of a project conceived by the Magnum cooperative and the museum — a three-month-old institution whose permanent building is scheduled to open in 2016 — in a country where photography is viewed with suspicion.

The MMPVA has set up inside the historic El Badi Palace, in a space granted rent-free for five years by the Moroccan minister of culture, Mohamed Sbihi, on the simple condition that it keeps mounting exhibitions.

When it opens in its final form, the MMPVA will be the first major international photography museum in Northern Africa. Marrakesh is home to the Maison de la Photographie, a 5,000-strong private collection of photos of Morocco from 1870 to 1950, which opened in 2009.

The museum project was conceived by the financier-turned-flamenco dancer and philanthropist Karen Ruimy and her family, who have roots in Morocco. They have provided seed funding and donations from their private collection to start a permanent one for the museum. “The birth of MMPVA gives witness to the sense of culture and history that Morocco has nourished in us,” Ms. Ruimy said in a statement.

Through the MMPVA Foundation, David Knaus, who leads the museum as its managing director, is working to expand its collection and seek further funds, in part through engaging with local supporters. “We always wanted to have a public-private partnership,” he said. “We think that’s the way to operate in this part of the world.”

The current exhibition, which runs through Feb. 1 and features the work of five Magnum photographers, showcases the group’s impressions of Marrakesh. Different photographers share the same walls, with the works strung together “like nerves in our bodies,” said Jim Goldberg, one of the photographers.

The project began as an invitation to the Magnum group to capture their raw first encounters with the city. The assignment proved challenging because of language barriers and the mistrust of some locals who did not want to appear in photographs. “Rejection is around every corner,” Mr. Goldberg said.  “You don’t have language of either kind,” Ms. Meiselas said. “You don’t have your own literal language, or the language of photography, which is not yet accepted in certain ways.”

Faced with a society unaccustomed to photography as art, Ms. Meiselas chose to create a more comfortable context. At a pop-up booth on Rahba Kedima, or Spice Square, she offered to take portraits of women and then gave them the choice to either keep the photograph or receive 20 dirhams, or about $2.40, and allow the image to be exhibited. On the exhibition wall, bank notes of the Moroccan dirham represented the minority of women who chose to keep their pictures.

While shooting his contribution, Abbas, an Iranian-born photographer living in Paris who only goes by one name, was immediately confronted by a young girl who, though his camera was not trained on her, lifted her finger in protest. “You can feel the tension,” said Abbas. “So I decided to work on people within shadows. ‘You don’t to want be in the picture? Fine. I’ll grab your shadow.”’

Mikhael Subotzky, a South African, sped through the city’s dauntingly narrow and busy streets on the back of a scooter, capturing material for a dizzying split-screen video installation.

The British photographer Mark Power said that he stayed at a distance from his subjects.  Before the Magnum show, the museum opened in September with a show of 10 contemporary Moroccan photographers. They faced similar challenges.

“People are not used to seeing other Moroccans take pictures,” said Hicham Gardaf, 24, the youngest artist in that show. Mr. Gardaf chose to photograph people where he lived. “I tried to approach the people and create trust, ” he said. “I would often produce prints to give them, to prove what I was doing. In time, I gained a reputation as a photographer in the neighborhood. And now people come to ask me to take their picture.”

After seeing the Magnum show, the architect David Chipperfield suggested it would influence his design for the permanent home of the museum, the location of which has yet to be determined.  “To build an elitist little museum here would not be interesting,” Mr. Chipperfield said in an interview.

“It could be an offer to a younger generation who might really see the museum not just as a sort of temple but as a cultural social center. You want to make it as open as possible.”

The Magnum project has provided valuable insight for a museum that is seeking to connect with the Moroccan public and artists. Visitor numbers have remained steady at a few hundred on weekdays, but up to 1,000 on Fridays, the traditional day of rest.

“We were part of the beginning of a dialogue, more so than we understood,” Ms. Meiselas said.

[Continue Reading...]

 

 

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Usher in New Year: Rides Camel, Camps in Sahara Desert in Morocco – People Magazine

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Usher of Arabia: As the New Year dawned, the singer found himself not on a beach, but deep in the Sahara desert, visiting the North African nation of Morocco. People Magazine

Usher of Arabia: As the New Year dawned, the singer found himself not on a beach, but deep in the Sahara desert, visiting the North African nation of Morocco. People Magazine

 

 

People Magazine, by Andrea Billups (January 1, 2014) — Call him Usher of Arabia. Or the entertainment king of Casablanca.

As the New Year dawned, the singer found himself not on a beach, but deep in the Sahara desert, visiting the North African nation of Morocco.

There, dressed in a camouflage hat, plenty of scarves and local garb, Usher posted photos of his sandy and faraway adventure halfway around the world.

“Slept in the Sahara… Check,” The Voice coach, 35, wrote on Instagram, where he showed off photos of tents, a local family and a fire-lit night, including a native serenade video of robe-clad Berber musicians performing under the stars.

“Azul means ‘Welcome’ in Berber,” he wrote of his hosts.

“They singin in their native language.”

Usher noted that the locals had heard of his music and made him feel welcome as he rode a camel and braced for the heat of the day and the chill of the desert nights.

“Couldn’t sleep, so I decided to go warm up around the fire,” Usher wrote.

He also urged his fans to spend some time this year learning about other cultures.

“You gotta explore a little bit more in 2014,” Usher wrote.

“This is just how U see it. So, we sleepin in the desert for the night… you can tell Game of Thrones fans when you see ‘em.

Where the hell is Calise though?”

 

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From Egypt to Morocco, Cairo Celebration Choir kicks off the New Year – Albawaba

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After performing in the Cairo Opera House over Christmas, the Cairo Celebration Choir is off to Morocco. (Image: Facebook)

After performing in the Cairo Opera House over Christmas, the Cairo Celebration Choir is off to Morocco. Image: Facebook

Albawaba (January 2, 2014) — The Cairo Celebration Choir are on their way to their annual performance in Morocco with their founder and conductor Nayer Nagui, singer Rehab Metawi and oriental percussionist Ramadan Mansour.

The concert, dubbed “Une d’ici et d’ailleurs” (“A note from here and there”) will take place at the National Mohammed V Theatre in Rabat on 4 January.

The fourteen members from CCC choir will sing with Moroccan choir Les Voix du Choeur, hosts of the event. It is the first time in both choirs’ history that they will sing side-by-side. The choirs will perform a mixture of Egyptian and Moroccan compositions.

The performance will open the Mohammed V Theatre’s 2014 program.

During previous visits to Morocco, the choir performed at the Marrakech Royal Theatre and Dar Souiri in the Western Moroccan city Essaouira.

The concert will include works from the choir’s Aghany Bel Arabi (“Songs in Arabic”) collection, mainly compositions by Sayed Darwish arranged by Nayer Nagui, as well as Moroccan songs. The evening will be conducted by Nagui and Rabii Merouane, conductor of Les Voix du Choeur.

Founded in 2000, and consisting of “professional amateurs,” as Nagui describes them, the Cairo Celebration Choir has become a vibrant element of Egypt’s cultural life. Over 100 choir members sing the famed choral works of the Western classical music repertoire, Gregorian songs and famous Egyptian choral works by Sayed Darwish and Gamal Abdel-Rahim, arranged by Nagui. They participate regularly in the annual Christmas concert organised at the Cairo Opera House where they are joined by the Cairo Opera Orchestra and soloists from the Cairo Opera Company.

In 2012, the choir participated in the Czech Republic’s “Prague Voices 2012 Festival,” winning the Silver Level Diploma.

Program:
Saturday 4 January at 8pm
Mohammed V Theatre, Avenue Al-Mansour Addahbi (main public entrance on Avenue Moulay Rachid), Avenue Al-Mansour Addahbi, Rabat, Morocco

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Bundling Up With Lamb: Moroccan Tagine – New York Times

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In Morocco, a traditional tagine is cooked in an earthenware vessel with a conical top… Eat your tagine from a communal vessel the Moroccan way, attacking with fingers and flatbreads in utter enjoyment. NYTimes

In Morocco, a traditional tagine is cooked in an earthenware vessel with a conical top… Eat your tagine from a communal vessel the Moroccan way, attacking with fingers and flatbreads in utter enjoyment. Photo: Fred R. Conrad/NYTimes

The New York Times, by David Tanis, City Kitchen (January 3, 2014) — This is not the season for roast lamb. Wouldn’t you rather have a warming stew during these bitterly cold days? Of course, for those of us who love a good braise, it’s stew season all year round — but a deeply savory slow-cooked lamb tagine is exactly what I want just now.

The best cut for this Moroccan stew is the shank of the lamb, which gives a melting, unctuous quality to the dish. (Even when I make this tagine with meaty neck bones or bone-in shoulder chops, I add at least one shank to the pot.) Just describing it makes me crave that very particular taste of shank meat, simmered to sticky tenderness with buttery saffron-flecked onions, soft Medjool dates and a spice mixture with just enough cayenne.

In Morocco, a traditional tagine is cooked in an earthenware vessel with a conical top (also called a tagine) set over coals. The design of the pot ensures that moisture doesn’t evaporate, so a concentrated flavorful sauce is always bathing the meat within. Modern Moroccan cooks use a large pot over a gas flame instead, but they may bring the stew to the table in a colorful decorative tagine. I often begin a tagine in a pot on the stovetop and finish it in the oven.

One secret to a stellar tagine is cooking the meat to just the right stage, almost falling off the bone, but not quite. Remember that even a stew can become overcooked and stringy, so pull the meat as soon as it is ready.

Another is to check in to monitor its progress from time to time. If the level of the liquid in the pot gets too low, you risk drying out the meat, so it may be necessary to add a cup of water occasionally. You get a second chance to fix the sauce at the end of the process. If it seems too thin, boil it down a bit; too concentrated, add a little water. For me, the ideal consistency is somewhere on the thicker side of brothy. Taste the sauce for balance, then adjust to get the perfect combination of sweet, salty and spicy.

Eat your tagine from a communal vessel the Moroccan way, attacking with fingers and flatbreads in utter enjoyment.

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Morocco’s Off-the-Beaten Track Attractions – London Telegraph

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Hassan Tower, Rabat

Hassan Tower, Rabat  Telegraph

 

*Venture farther afield than Marrakesh and Morocco has many surprises known only to locals, says Tara Stevens*

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London Telegraph, by Tara Stevens (January 5, 2014) — With all the appeal of an exotic destination, yet accessible by a short-haul flight, Morocco is a perennial favorite for winter sun. Most of the country’s 10 million visitors make a beeline for Marrakesh, but some tourists are complaining that the Red City has lost its lustre.

True, the seething souks of the old medina — spilling over with leather slippers and brightly woven carpets, beaten metal lanterns and cheap kaftans — can seem rather Disneyfied. Many visitors are opting to spend short breaks in the more authentic splendour of imperial cities like Fez and Meknes.

But follow locals and resident expats farther off the well-worn tourist path and you’ll discover some of the country’s best-kept secrets: towns and villages possessed of somewhat quieter personalities, fantastic food and memorable places to stay.

 

Scarabeo Camp

Instead of bumping along in a 4×4 for hours to get into the Moroccan Sahara, in-the-know Marrakchis take the short cut to the Scarabeo Camp in the Agafay stone desert. Located a mere 25 miles from Marrakesh, it feels like a million miles away, thanks to the great wall of Atlas Mountains framing a lunar landscape of stone dunes that seem to shift shape in the light.

It’s a sensational place to hike in winter or spring sunshine, or, as many do, simply sit out on the deck of your tent for a day or two, watching the clouds and contemplating the universe. At night, a professional astronomer with a serious telescope shows up to guide you through constellations that seem so close you could touch them.

Several billowing white canvas tents make up the Scarabeo luxury camp, each with a sturdy wood-framed bed piled high with snowy linen, writing desk and en suite eco bathroom (order hot water 20 minutes beforehand); dining tents serve impeccable Berber dishes and a library is well stocked with books and board games.

 

 

 

Astronomy, camel rides and parapenting are all available by arrangement too. A sister camp is due to open near Agadir in the spring (00212 661 444 158; scarabeo-camp.com; luxury double tent from £145 per night).

El Jadida

The French protectorate of Morocco (1912-1956) is well documented. Less publicised is that the Portuguese had a hand in things too, with some architecturally splendid results.

El Jadida, a one-hour train ride from Casablanca, was named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2004 for its stone ramparts enclosing the mighty Portuguese fortress of Mazagan and a 16th-century cistern, where sheets of silvery water reflect the arcaded roof and columns, creating a space both strange and ethereal.

 

 

It can all easily be covered in a day, but for anyone looking to explore a different side of Morocco it makes a rewarding stopover en route to Oualidia, especially since the opening of the quirky Hotel L’Iglesia in a 19th-century Catholic church.

This sleek hotel, in the eye of the ancient battlements of the Mazagan fortress, comprises two parts: the old Harbour Master’s house and the church. Farrow & Ball hues have been used to decorate the spacious rooms dominated by wrought-iron beds. There’s a lavish cocktail lounge in the nave, stacked with velvet chaises and Barcelona chairs and lit by chandeliers dripping with semi-precious jewels (523 373 400; liglesia.com; doubles from £125 per night).

 

Oualidia

Famed for its saltwater lagoon and excellent seafood, Oualidia is where Marrakesh residents go to escape the crowds of Essaouira.

Situated just two hours from Casablanca (take a train half way to El Jadida, then a grand taxi from there), the little village of white and blue cottages, their lush gardens dripping with purple bougainvillea and lipstick-red hibiscus, is sublimely tranquil.

 

 

There’s blessedly little to do here other than soak up the sun on powder-soft, white sand beaches, swim in the calm, turquoise water of the lagoon, or, if you surf, catch a break on the Atlantic side of the lagoon.

Lunches consist of snacking on freshly shucked oysters, razor clams and sea urchins sold for mere pence out of esparto grass baskets from the back of a moped; or seeking out one of the local fisherman hosting a barbecued fish picnic on the beach. Sunset sees Oualidia at its most magical as you stroll along the edge of the lagoon and watch the water turn pink.

When you’re there, stay at the dreamy La Sultana, one of the most romantic places in the country. Bob about in an infinity pool that spills over the shallow cliffs, get scrubbed with rose oil and clay in the spa, smooch in a Jacuzzi beneath the stars (all the rooms have one), picnic in the Atlantic dunes, or throw back a long, lazy lunch of oysters, spider crab and roast sea bass on a pontoon jutting into the Oualidia lagoon (524 388 008; lasultanahotels.com; double from £215 per night).

Rabat

Just minutes from Casablanca by train, this may be Morocco’s capital, but its compact size means you can absorb it all in a weekend with none of the stress of the more celebrated cities.

 

 

Shop, hassle-free, in the pint-size medina for modern artisan goods like smart houndstooth blankets in subtle hues, quality leather bags and shoes and keenly priced antiques, then take in a couple of the art galleries and women’s cooperatives selling embroidered table linen and terracotta bowls in the blue and white Kasbah that wraps along the cliff tops.

A new tramway connects the cosmopolitan new city with the old, and it’s worth venturing into the new town to take a look at Mohammed V’s marble mausoleum, the honey-coloured Roman ruins of the Chellah and the dazzling white art deco cathedral.

The icing on the cake is taking a rowing boat across the river to neighbouring Salé and spending the night at The Repose, the most peaceful and charming hotel in town. With just four rooms, it’s like staying in a private home richly decorated with silk drapes, velvet banquettes and deep pile wool rugs, with superb vegetarian cooking (by prior arrangement) as a bonus (537 882 958; therepose.com; doubles from £50 per night).

Ifrane

It’s hard to imagine anywhere less Moroccan than Ifrane, about an hour and a half’s drive from Fez. But that’s the joy of this country: it is all in the surprises. Known as a “Little Switzerland”, the Alpine-like village with its pitched roof houses and pristine streets was created by the French during their time here and was a favourite of King Hassan II, who would retreat here to escape the city heat during his reign.

 

 

While expats can be rather disparaging of the place, it has remained a popular getaway among well-heeled Moroccans ever since, and no wonder. They come for cool mountain air and lake-swimming in the summer, wild mushrooms and hunting in the autumn, flowers in the spring and these days, a growing winter sports scene that includes some lovely cross-country skiing. Morocco certainly has it all if you know where to go.

Stay at the Michlifen, a handsome five-star hotel surrounded by pine forest and owned by ONCF (which also has La Mamounia in Marrakesh). The interior mixes local stone and cedar, with antique carpets and Ralph Lauren furniture, giving a sense of true Middle Atlas luxury. Once the day’s skiing is done, soak away the strain in the indoor-outdoor pool heated by a real fire in the spa (535 864 000; michlifenifrane.com; doubles from £220).

[Continue Reading…]

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